I Estimated The Height Of This
Mountain At Between Six And Seven Thousand Feet; And Yet The Country
North And South Appeared Equally Elevated.
Numerous smokes arising from
natives' fires announced a country well inhabited, and gave the whole
picture a cheerful aspect, which reflected itself on our minds; and we
returned to the tents with lighter hearts and better prospects.
In
removing the baggage left at the bottom of the hill a short quarter of a
mile, a most distressing accident occurred. A mare, one of the strongest
we had, in bringing up a very light load, not a quarter of her usual
burden, and when within one hundred yards of the tent, literally burst
with the violent exertion which the ascent required. In this shocking
state, with her entrails on the ground, she arrived at the tent, when, to
put an end to her agonies, she was shot. This was a serious loss to us,
in addition to that which we suffered on the day before: and three more
horses were so worn, that I scarcely expected to force them along even
unladen. It must not be supposed that we attempted to climb these hills
in a direct line; it would have been scarcely possible for a man to do
it: we wound round them in every practicable direction; and the loose
rich soil of which they were generally composed, together with the
thickness of the timber, by preventing our falling, favoured our
progress. In the course of the afternoon I tried the angle of elevation
and depression on various parts, and found it to be from 30 to 35 and
even 40 degrees. By the same means we found that the mountain which we
had descended yesterday evening exceeded four thousand seven hundred feet
in height on those angles. The mountain we shall have to ascend to-morrow
is very considerably higher; but, with one or two exceptions, the ascents
are not so abrupt. After the provisions were brought up, all hands were
sent to cut a road for the horses through the brushes which surrounded
the bottoms of the steepest ascents, and without which it would have been
impossible for them to pass laden; the vines which crossed each other in
various directions forming an almost impenetrable barrier. It may seem
superfluous to speak of soil and timber among such mountains as these;
yet I will say that except where the rocks presented a perpendicular
face, and along the highest ridges, the soil was light and good. The
timber consisted of blue gum and stringy bark, and forest oak
[Note: Casuarina torulosa.] of the largest dimensions: the gorges of the
valleys were covered with loose small stones, and in those gorges all the
trees which are usually found in places of a similar description
in the district of the Five Islands (with the exception of the red
cedar), were to be met with. The stones and rocks were mixed with
a considerable portion of quartz, and were generally in loose detached
masses of various sizes. The mountain from whence we first saw the ocean
was named Sea View Mount, and I should think might be distinctly seen by
ships at some distance from the coast.
September 24. - At eight o'clock the horses began to ascend the mountain,
and it was twelve before we reached the summit, a distance of exactly two
miles. How the horses descended I scarcely know; and the bare
recollection of the imminent dangers which they escaped, makes me
tremble. At one period of the descent, I would willingly have compromised
for a loss of one third of them, to ensure the safety Of the remainder.
It is to the exertions and steadiness of the men, under Providence, that
their safety must be ascribed. The thick tufts of grass and the loose
soil also gave them a surer footing, of which the men skillfully availed
themselves. The length of the descent was two measured miles and three
quarters, and upon first, an angle of depression of 40 degrees for one
thousand two hundred and fifty-four feet: we then slightly ascended 4 or
6 degrees for four thousand six hundred and twenty, and from thence the
descent, in a continued straight line, to the run of water at the base,
was on the various angles of 28, 32, 35, 40, and 46 degrees, eight
thousand five hundred and eighty feet; from whence I deduce the
perpendicular height to be nearly six thousand feet, which is certainly
underrated. The descent terminated in a very narrow steep valley, down
which we proceeded for near three quarters of a mile, when the small
stream before mentioned joined a very considerable one seen yesterday from
Sea View Mount; and the valley opening, we halted on the banks of the
river on a spot which afforded us plenty of excellent grass, and was in
other respects favourable for that rest which the horses required before
they could resume their journey. One of the horses when about a third down
the mountain was quite incapable of proceeding, we therefore were obliged
to leave him for the night, with the loads of two other horses. It was
past four o'clock before we arrived at our halting-place, having been
exactly three hours and a half in descending.
September 25. - Despatched the men to bring down the horse and the baggage
left on the mountain yesterday. They returned in the afternoon with both,
but the horse was scarcely able to stand. In the course of the day
examined the valley a few miles, when we found that it opened
considerably four or five miles down; the hills previously thereto being
very steep, but covered with grass, and abounding with kangaroos. It was
therefore determined to move farther down the river to-morrow, instead of
remaining here two days as originally proposed. In the present
reduced state of the horses, we were obliged to make short stages with
frequent halts, in hopes of sufficiently recruiting their strength so as
to proceed with greater expedition along the coast.
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