- Our course for near eight miles led us along a broad and
very elevated ridge of poor forest land, intermixed with brush; when we
were stopped from proceeding farther eastward by the deep chasm or glen,
which we had seen at a distance yesterday.
This tremendous ravine runs
near north and south, its breadth at the bottom does not apparently
exceed one hundred or two hundred feet, whilst the separation of the
outer edges is from two to three miles. I am certain that in
perpendicular depth it exceeds three thousand feet. The slopes from the
edges were so steep and covered with loose stones, that any attempt to
descend even on foot was impracticable. From either side of this abyss,
smaller ravines of similar character diverged, the distance between which
seldom exceeded half a mile. Down them trickled rills of water, derived
from the range on which we were. We could not however discern which way
the water in the main valley ran, as the bottom was concealed by a thicket
of vines and creeping plants. From the range on which we were, we could
distinctly see the coast line of hills. The country between us and the
coast was of an equal elevation, and appeared broken and divided by
ravines and steep precipices. We continued along the edge of this ravine
southerly for about four miles, when we halted for the day. Our only hope
of being enabled to cross this barrier depends upon our pursuing a
southerly course, when if the waters run northerly, the dividing range
between them and Hunters River will permit us again to turn easterly. If
on the contrary they run southerly, their junction with Hunter's River
will equally (it is to be hoped) facilitate that object.
September 12. - We were obliged during the whole of this day's journey, to
keep along the ridge bordering on the glen. It is impossible to form a
correct idea of the wild magnificence of the scenery without the pencil
of a Salvator. Such a painter would here find an ample field for the
exercise of his genius. How dreadful must the convulsion have been that
formed these glens! The principal glen led us to the westward: there were
others that fell into it from the southward; but we perceived that the
waters in it ran north-easterly, which gave us strong hopes of soon
being enabled to head it. Several times in the course of the day we
attempted to descend on foot; but after getting with much difficulty a
few hundred yards, we were always stopped by perpendicular precipices.
Scarcely a quarter of a mile elapsed without a spring from the top of the
ridge crossing our track, forming at its entrance into the main glen a
vast ravine. The ridge along which we travelled was, as might be
expected, very stony. It was otherwise open forest land, thickly timbered
with large, stringy bark trees, casuarinae, and a large species of
eucalyptus. Kangaroos abounded on it, and the tracks of emus were
also seen.
September 13. - We were too anxious to find a passage across this river
(for such we now perceived it to be), to permit us to rest this day. We
proceeded on a variety of courses to avoid the deep ravines or glens
which conducted numerous small streams of water to the principal one. Our
road was very rugged, and our elevation sometimes very considerable,
every part heavily timbered. Our course, which led us chiefly west, now
terminated at one of the most magnificent waterfalls we had ever seen.
The water was precipitated over a perpendicular rock at least one hundred
and fifty feet in height in one unbroken sheet, falling into a large
reservoir about one third down the whole declivity: hence it wound its
way through the glen for about half a mile farther, when it joined the
main stream. This grand fall was called Beckett's Cataract, in honour of
the Judge Advocate General. It now commenced raining so heavily that we
were obliged to stop on the spot, though by no means an eligible
situation. We had not seen any place where there had been the slightest
possibility of descending; but as we were not many miles from the river
which we crossed on Wednesday last, we knew that this rugged country must
soon end.
September 14. - The weather preventing us from proceeding, parties were
sent out to search the banks of the glen, for a place by which to descend
and cross it. Two of the people traced it up so far as to ascertain that
the river which we had crossed on Wednesday was the same which had so
embarrassed us. It entered the glen in a fall of vast height: above,
there was no difficulty in crossing it, the country being clear and open,
and of moderate height. A kangaroo was chased to this fall, down which he
leapt and was dashed to pieces; like the hero of Wordsworth's "Hartleap
Well." It is wonderful that the dogs escaped the same fate. We had
been also successful in finding a passage nearer to the tent. About a
mile above Beckett's Cataract, a pass was discovered by which we might
descend, and the opposite side appeared equally favourable. It appears
that we have been hitherto deceived respecting the magnitude of the river
which runs through the glen, owing to the vast height from which it was
viewed, and to our being seldom within a mile of it. The geologist would
here have a most interesting field for research, and would doubtless be
enabled to account for those natural phenomena, which, from their
defiance of all rule, perplex us so greatly. These mountains abound with
coal and slate. The dip of the rocks on this side (the north) of the
glen, is about twenty degrees to the west.
September 15. - We first attempted the pass nearest to us, and which was
reported to be practicable. The horses with tolerable ease descended the
first ridge, which was about one third down; but it was impossible to
proceed a step farther with them:
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