Thew Forests Extended Above Two Miles From The East Of The River.,
After Which The Country Became Perfectly Open, And Of A Level, Or Rather
Alternately Rising Surface.
To the north and north-east the river was
beautiful, the same description of country extending as far as the eye
could reach, with no elevated points or ridges to obstruct it.
Indeed I
am clearly of opinion, that if we had kept a more northerly course from
Lushington Valley, we should have avoided the rugged though fine country
we have passed through for the last two days. The determination of all
the hills and slopes is northerly, and the rivers which we have crossed
have also taken the same direction. We proceeded about nine miles farther
through the finest open country, or rather park, imaginable; the general
quality of the soil excellent, though of a strong and more tenacious
description than farther westerly. We halted in a fine and spacious
valley, where art, so far as it is an auxiliary of beauty, would have
been detrimental to the fresher and simpler garb of nature. This valley
was watered by a fine brook, and at a a distance of a mile we saw several
fires, at which appeared many natives: upon discovering us, however, they
immediately departed. I think that the most fastidious sportsman would
have derived ample amusement during our days journey. He might without
moving have seen the finest coursing, from the commencement of the chase
to the death of the game: and when tired of killing kangaroos, he might
have seen emus hunted with equal success. We numbered swans and ducks
among our acquisitions, which in truth were caught without much exertion
on our part, or deviating, in the least from our course. Granite and a
hard whinstone were the most predominant among the stones; small pieces
of quartz, and loose rotten slates covered the tracks, on which grew
some of the finest stringy bark trees I ever saw. Indeed the other timber,
which consisted chiefly of common blue gum, was far larger than usually
seen on forest lands. That species of casuarina called the beef wood
(or she oak), was also seen to-day for the first time: it is in part
a coast tree, and sufficiently denoted that we were approaching the sea.
Observed the variation of the compass to be 8. 51. E.
September 9. - In the night we had a severe frost, which in the morning
was succeeded by a dense fog. We found however that it was confined to
the valley, for on ascending the hills, the prospect was clear and open.
We passed over a beautiful and well-watered country for about six miles,
when we came on the rivulet which we had quitted in the morning; but
now, by the addition of several brooks from the valleys, increased to a
considerable stream. Its banks were quite clear of timber, and expanded
into extensive sheets of water, which added greatly to the beauty of the
scenery. This stream running to the east southeast verified the
conjecture that we had passed the dividing range of hills, and that this
and most probably Sydney River (much superior in magnitude) were coast
streams. Crossing the former, we ascended a hill on the opposite side,
from whence the river's course was seen to the south-east, running
through a fine and open country. To the northward and north-east the
prospect was equally satisfactory, the hills being connected by long and
easy slopes, which would have rendered their ascent a matter of little
difficulty had our course lain over them. After crossing the river, the
country still continued open, but the soil was not so good, and we found
that we were ascending in a gradual manner. For the last five miles the
country was thickly timbered with stringy bark and gum trees, the soil
bad, and crossed by numerous wet hollows, which showed we were nearly on
the summit of a level and extensive range of hills. We accomplished
fourteen miles with much ease, and halted for the evening in a thick
stringy bark forest, where there was worse entertainment for both man and
horse than we had experienced for some weeks.
September 10. - A tempestuous morning, with occasional showers of small
rain, prevented us from quitting our camp. In the intervals of fair
weather, I walked to a hill about one mile off, being the highest part of
the range we were upon. Our prospect from it was exceedingly grand and
picturesque. The country from north to south-east was broken into
perpendicular rocky ridges, and divided longitudinally by deep and
apparently impassable glens. The rocks were covered with climbing plants,
and the glens abounded with new and beautiful ones. Our collector
descended one of those nearest to us, and was amply repaid by the
acquisition of nearly sixty most desirable plants, some of which appeared
even to constitute new genera. The rocks were covered with epidendra
[Note: Of the genera cymbidium and dendrobium of Swartz.], bignoniae, or
trumpet-flowers, and clematides, or virgin's bower, of which last genus
three species apparently new were discovered. Far different was the
character of these glens from the rugged and barren blue mountain ranges:
fine open forest land ended abruptly on the precipices. The bottoms were
of the richest soil, the rocks instead of being of a coarse sandstone
were of a hard texture, and of a blue shining appearance when broken. The
country eastward of these glens appeared very lofty, and much broken; but
as in the direction of our course, we should have some miles of good open
country to travel over, we had strong hopes that our difficulties would
prove greater in contemplation than reality. Among the timber in these
glens were some of the stateliest stringy bark trees that we had ever
beheld: in fact, the timber altogether is unusually good. To the
south-west and north-west, the country is low and beautifully diversified
by long sloping hills.
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