Their White Appearance Was Occasioned By
The Grass Having Been Burnt Early In The Year, And The Young Growth
Killed By The Frosts.
The little rivulet, that watered the north-west
side of this track of country, had overflowed within these few days; but
the ground left by the retreating waters was as firm and solid, as those
parts which had not been touched.
The sides of the hills were of the
same black mould, stony towards their summits, and the higher eminences
rocky. The rocks were of a very hard whinstone, the stratum nearly
perpendicular, or rather standing up in regular basaltic figures,
similar to those on Loadstone Hill. These valleys and hills abound with
kangaroos, and on the plains numbers of emus were seen. We seemed to be
once more in the land of plenty, and the horses as well as men had cause
to rejoice at the change, from the miserable harassing deserts through
which we had been struggling for the last six weeks, to this beautiful
and fertile country. From the hill on which we stood, bearings were
taken to the most remarkable points and objects connected with the
survey; and the most distinguished, in point of beauty or singularity of
appearance, were honoured with distinctive appellations. The valley down
which we had travelled was called Lushington's Valley (after the
Secretary to His Majesty's Treasury); the extensive one to the
north-east, leading to Hardwicke's Range, Camden Valley (after the noble
Marquis); the plains to the east and south-east were honoured with the
name of Lord Liverpool; the hills bounding Lushington's Valley, on the
south side, Vansittart's Hills, after the Chancellor of the Exchequer;
while several less remarkable hills were designated after persons
endeared to our recollections by early friendship. A great variety of
new plants rewarded the exertions of our botanist, in ascending Mount
Tetley; and many, hitherto only known on the coast, were discovered on
the hills and in the valleys: the acacia pendula was also seen; it had
hitherto been the usual characteristic of wet lands, but it was here
growing on the most dry and elevated situations. The timber on the
plains and hills was chiefly those species of eucalyptus called apple
tree, box, and gum trees; and on the banks of the rivulet were a few
large casuarina. So much time was consumed in ascending hills and
examining the country, that we did not go more than ten miles on a
direct course: it was however time well bestowed. Three native fires
were seen in Lushington's Valley, but the whole of this part of the
country appears to be very thinly inhabited; a few wandering families
making up the total of its population. The small rivulet in Lushington's
Valley was named Yorke's Rivulet, in honour of Sir J. S. Yorke.
August 27. - Pursuing our course to the eastward, towards the range of
low hills bordering the plains in that quarter, between five and six
miles, we came to a fine stream of water, crossing the plains from the
south to the north. There had been a flood in this rivulet within these
few days, marks of which were observed about fifteen feet high; but
still within the banks. It appears that the plains are chiefly flooded
from Yorke's Rivulet, the remaining waters of which, together with
rain-water, were in several places still standing on the surface; but
not to the extent that the horizontal level of these plains would have
led me to suppose would probably be the case. The far greater portion
was a rich dry soil, and that the water is never permanent on any part
of them is clearly demonstrated by the total absence of any aquatic or
bog plants. From this rivulet, the three main branches of these immense
plains were clearly visible to the east by south-south-east, and
north-east. Of the extent of the two former, we could only judge from
the lofty bounding chains of hills in those quarters; and which we could
not estimate to be nearer than from forty-five to fifty miles.
Hardwicke's Range bounded these to the north-east, with many intervening
beautiful hills and valleys. We found the distance across the plains to
the hill where we stopped, to be upwards of fourteen miles on an east
line. Chains and ridges of low forest hills, which gradually rise from the
horizontal level, are scattered over these plains, and stand for the most
part detached like islands; varying the scenery in a most picturesque
manner, as they are generally clothed with wood of apple tree, cypress,
and other species of eucalyptus, intermingled with various acacias in full
flower. Mr. Evans ascended Mount Tetley to take bearings from it. He found
the compass to be affected in a similar manner to that remarked on
Loadstone Hill; the north point of it when placed on the rock, becoming
the south. This remarkable alteration of the needle was also observed on
several other hills in this vicinity, but in a less degree; the bearings
generally varying from two to three points from the truth. On the hill
under which we stopped this evening, named View Hill, the needle varied
three points. In consequence of the heavy rains and recent floods,
travelling on many parts of these plains was very heavy; the soil being a
rick loose loam, of a dark red approaching to a black colour, but of
great apparent fertility and strength: some hundreds of kangaroos and
emus were seen in the course of the day. We killed several, the dogs
being absolutely fatigued with slaughter: the game was by no means shy,
but came close up to us, as if to examine us. Indeed I do not think they
are much disturbed by natives, of whom we have seen few signs in this
neighbourhood. The stream crossing the plains was named Bowen's Rivulet,
in honour of Commissioner Bowen, of the Navy Board.
August 28. - The season continues to get warm and sultry.
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