To
return to Arbuthnot's Range, and again undergo what it had cost us so
much to overcome, could not
Be thought of for a moment; but upon that
mature reflection which our serious situation demanded, it was deemed
the most prudent plan to return so far back as would enable us to reach
the higher lands to the south-east. This we expected to do by Saturday
evening: twenty miles back we had left land of considerable elevation;
and we could only hope that in its vicinity we should find a dry ridge
on which to accomplish our purpose, and occasionally a patch of country
in which the horses might find subsistence; for they were at present
very much reduced.
August 23. - We returned yesterday to Parry's Rivulet, within twelve
miles of Weltden Valley, which was the whole distance we had gone in the
direction of our course towards the coast, although we had travelled
during the week upwards of seventy miles. The weather for the last four
days has been extremely tempestuous, with slight showers of hail and
rain: the winds were chiefly from the west and north-west, the
temperature being extremely cold for the latitude and season. The
observations of to-day place this station in lat. 30. 57. 20.,
long. 149. 20. E. Variation 8. 42. E.
August 24. - We were a little surprised at finding that a severe frost
had taken place during the night, and that the thermometer was now as
low as 28 degrees. Ice lay within a few yards of our fire, of the
thickness of a dollar. Our course throughout the day was southerly, and
led us up the banks of Parry's Rivulet. We experienced fewer
difficulties than on any day since we had entered this desert, and
accomplished between nine and ten miles, at the end of which we entered
a small valley of good forest ground with tolerable grass; though early
in the day, the horses needed refreshment too much, not to induce me to
stop here for the remainder of it: as we could not at the utmost have
gone above two miles farther. This valley, and the appearance of forest
hills to the southward, gave us strong hopes that by continuing our
present course for a day or two longer we should get into a better line
of country, and be enabled to resume our easterly course. Parry's
Rivulet was here a series of large ponds, near which were traces of
natives, but of old date. In this desert, we have never met with any
signs that can lead us to believe it has ever been before crossed by any
human being.
August 25. - A smart frost during the night: the morning fine and clear.
At eight o'clock we proceeded on our route, taking a more easterly
direction according to circumstances. Between three and four miles from
our camp, we had an extensive view to the east and south-east, and saw
with extreme satisfaction a lofty chain of fine forest hills thinly
timbered, bearing east-south-east of us; and distant fourteen or fifteen
miles. To the east were extensive flats, bare of timber, and apparently
either composed of white sand, or covered with dead grass; our distance
would not enable us to distinguish which: these flats were bounded by
remote rising hills seemingly clear and open. A high peak, bearing
north, was named Kerr's Peak; and a very lofty mount, under which the
west extremity of the plains lay, was named Mount Tetley: and the
westernmost remarkable hill in the chain first mentioned, Whitwell Hill.
The bogginess and ruggedness of our route, for the remainder of the day,
sufficiently tried our strength: we accomplished however thirteen miles,
and halted in a small valley about four miles south of Whitwell Hill.
This valley was bounded east and west by rocky hills, but the soil was
better, and the grass of good quality. The base of these hills was of
close-grained white-coloured granite, or whinstone: the summits of good
freestone: on the sides several good pieces of iron ore were picked up.
August 26. - While Mr. Evans proceeded with the horses on an eastern
course for Mount Tetley, Dr. Harris and myself went towards the spacious
valley at the foot of Whitwell Hill. This we soon reached, and travelled
down its centre, along the banks of a beautiful stream of water which
fertilized and drained it. The extent of this valley towards the
south-west, we could not discover, as its windings were lost among the
forest hills in that direction. We went down to the east between seven
and eight miles, when we rejoined the horses at the base of an elevated
conical hill, standing detached at its east entrance, which was here
four or five miles wide. On ascending this hill, the view which was on
all sides presented to our delighted eyes was of the most varied and
exhilarating kind. Hills, dales, and plains of the richest description
lay before us, bounded to the east by fine hills, beyond which were seen
elevated mountains. To the north-east an extensive valley, from eight to
ten miles wide, led to Hardwicke's Range, being a distance of about
thirty-five miles. In this great valley were numerous low hills and
plains, thinly studded with timber, and watered by the stream, down the
banks of which we had travelled. From its eastern side, these low hills
gradually rose to a loftier elevation: but were still thinly timbered,
and covered with grass. To the east-south-east, and south-east, clear
plains extended to the foot of very lofty forest hills, at a medium
distance of from twenty-five to forty miles. These were the plains seen
on our yesterday's route, and which we feared were sand. We found them
to consist of a rich dry vegetable soil; and although, from their vast
extent, they may, as a whole, be properly denominated plains, yet their
surfaces were slightly broken into gentle eminences with occasional
clumps, and lines of timber.
Enter page number
PreviousNext
Page 61 of 94
Words from 61219 to 62239
of 95539
