Mount Exmouth, (Northern Extreme Of The Range) N. 79.
E.
Mount Harrison, (centre) N. 85.
E.
Vernon's Peake N. 88. E.
July 21 - Proceeded on the same course, through a country of alternate
brush and marsh: whatever obstacles the former opposed to the progress
of the horses, were nothing to the distress occasioned by the latter, in
which they sank up to their knees at every step; I could not suffer them
to proceed farther than seven miles, which, indeed, was not accomplished
without severe labour. It is a singular feature in this remarkable
country, that the botany and soil are in all respects the same as two
hundred and fifty miles farther to the south-west, presenting nothing
new to our researches. Passed a very large chain of ponds now running to
the north-east, and named them Wallis's Ponds, after my friend, Captain
Wallis, of the 46th regiment.
July 22. - We passed over much the same country as yesterday, but having
a large proportion of cypress forest. After travelling nearly ten miles,
we halted on the edge of a very extensive flat, from three to four miles
in diameter, covered with water. From this plain we had an excellent
view of Arbuthnot's Range, which, from so low and level a country,
appears of vast height. The horses failed much during the day, and
several of them were severely wrung with their burthens.
July 23. - The weather continues remarkably fine and favourable to our
progress over these plains. Our course to-day was chiefly through a
thick brush of acacia and cypresses; a few trees of the eucalyptus and
casuarina were intermixed. The marshy ground was not so frequent, and we
effected between eight and nine miles, when we stopped on a small chain
of ponds but now a running strean, doubtless having its rise in the
marshy grounds a few miles south of us: its course was to the north. We
saw and shot several unknown birds within these few days, but the
botanical sameness continues. These ponds were named Morrissett's Ponds,
after Capt. Morrissett, of the 48th regiment.
July 24. - About a mile and a half from last night's station, we crossed
another small stream similar in all respects to Morrissett's Ponds. Our
course was alternately over wet flats and dry brushes; but in the latter
we met with difficulties which we did not anticipate, namely, dry bogs
of a most dangerous description; they are from thirty to forty yards
broad, and the apparent firmness of their surface treacherously conceals
the danger beneath. One was discovered before the horses were too far
advanced to retreat, and by unlading them, we passed safely over.
The horses were upon the other before we discovered the extent of our
danger, and it was only by instantly cutting away their loads and
harness, and by the exertion of all hands, that they were dragged out;
but they were so exhausted by the struggles they had themselves made,
that I found it would be highly imprudent to proceed farther, though we
had only gone five miles and a half. Such of the horses as had not come
up, their loads being carried over, crossed the bog half a mile higher,
where the ground was somewhat firmer. We had this day the misfortune to
find two of our horses much strained in their hind quarters. The soil of
the brushes is in general a light, sandy loam; on the plains it is an
alluvial mould, on a substratum of clay: the water on these plains is
seldom deeper than the ankles, but travelling over them is very
wearisome. Arbuthnot's Range was in sight during the whole day. The
country was so generally level, that it was impossible to discern any
inequality in it. The waters however, ran with a pretty brisk stream
northerly.
July 25. - At nine o'clock we set forward with anxious hopes of reaching
Castlereagh River in the course of the day; we struggled for nine miles
through a line of country that baffles all description: we were
literally up to the middle in water the whole way, and two of the horses
were obliged to be unladen to get them over quicksand bogs. Finding a
place sufficiently dry to pitch our tent on, though surrounded by water,
we halted, both men and horses being too much exhausted to proceed
farther. Mr. Evans thinking we could not be very far from the river,
went forwards a couple of miles, when he came upon its banks. This same
river, which last Wednesday week had been crossed without any
difficulty, was now nearly on a level with its first or inner bank: and
its width and rapidity precluded all hope of our being able to cross it
until its subsidence. This was most perplexing intelligence, our
situation being such that we could neither retreat nor advance beyond
the bank of the river, which Mr. Evans represented as being both higher
and drier ground, and to all appearance sufficiently elevated to protect
us from the flood should it increase: thither I determined to remove in
the morning, and to take such further measures as might be deemed
advisable in our present hazardous situation. Since Mr. Evans re-crossed
the river, we have had no rain in our immediate neighbourhood
sufficient to cause the sudden rise, which therefore must be attributed
to heavy falls among the mountains to the east-south-east, from whence I
have no doubt it derives its source. It was most providential that
Mr. Evans and his companions crossed the river when they did; a single
day might have proved fatal to them. We would fain lessen to our own
imagination the dangers which surround us, and eagerly grasp at every
circumstance that tends in any way to enliven our future prospects. That
Providence, whose protection has hitherto been so beneficently extended
to us, will, we confidently hope, continue that protection, and lead us
in safety to our journey's end.
Owing most probably to the violent motion it experienced, my chronometer
stopped:
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