It was here extremely diminished in size, but was still nearly
equal in magnitude to the south-west branch which we last quitted. The
banks were about twelve or fourteen feet above the water, and it was
running with a tolerably brisk stream to the westward. The banks were so
thickly covered with large eucalypti, that we did not perceive it until
we were within a very few yards of it; it appeared about thirty feet
broad, running over a sandy bottom. I think it extremely probable that
the waters of both the main branches, after losing a very considerable
portion over the low grounds in the neighbourhood of Mount Cunningham
and Field's Plains, have again united and formed the present stream.
Our future course did not admit of any hesitation, and it was resolved
to go down the stream as long as there was a chance of its becoming more
considerable, and until our provisions should be so far expended as
barely to enable us to return to Bathurst.
It is a singular phenomenon in the history of this river, that, in a
course of upwards of two hundred and fifty miles, in a direct line from
where Mr. Evans first discovered it, not the smallest rivulet, or, in
fact, water of any description, falls into it from either the north or
south; with the exception of the two small occasional streams near the
depot, which flow from the north.
The country to the southward, in its soil and productions, explains
pretty satisfactorily why no constant running streams can have sources
in that direction; and it may be esteemed, as to useful purposes,
a desert, uninhabitable country. A small strip along the sea-coast
may possibly be better, and derive water from the low hills which
are known to border on it: south of the parallel of 34. S. may
therefore be considered as falling under the above designation and
description of country.
The plains south of the river, and lying from Goulburn's to Macquarie's
Range, were named Strangford Plains; and a remarkable peak south of
Barrow's Hill, Dryander's Head.
We resolved to try if our old friends, the fish, still continued in the
streams; in the course of a short time five fine ones were caught: this
most seasonable refreshment had an excellent effect in raising our
hitherto depressed spirits; and eternal Hope again visited us in the
form of extensive lakes and a better country; and even when her
companion Fear obtruded herself on our minds, the certainty of plenty of
water, and the chance of a fresh meal, dispelled every remaining
anxiety.
It was a matter of considerable curiosity and interest to us, in what
direction the Macquarie River had run; it was clear that it had not
joined the present stream, for in that case it would have been much more
considerable: we were within three or four miles of the latitude of
Bathurst, and it was scarcely probable that it should continue for so
long a course to run parallel to the Lachlan. The whole form, character,
and composition of this part of the country is so extremely singular,
that a conjecture on the subject is hardly hazarded before it is
overturned; every thing seems to run counter to the ordinary course of
nature in other countries.
June 24. - The water is about three feet above the common level, and
although the banks on both sides are certainly occasionally overflowed,
there is no appearance of any fresh or flood having swollen the stream
for a considerable time.
At nine o'clock we set forward down the river; our course lay westerly,
and by three o'clock we had gone nearly twelve miles in that direction;
when we stopped for the night on the banks of the river near the
termination of Macquarie's Range, the north point of which I named Mount
Porteous.
Strangford's Plains lay along our course the whole way; the river being
hidden from our view by a thick border of trees. We observed several
hollows and gulleys, which being connected with the river in times of
flood, receive their waters from it; they were now dry; but the
singularity consisted in the water being conveyed by them over the low
lands instead of their being the channels by which the waters in rainy
seasons might be drained off to the river. During our whole journey, we
have never discovered in what manner any additional supply of water
could be conveyed to it, as the back lands (with the exception of the
ranges) were always lower than the immediate banks of the river itself;
where we stopped, it was about thirty feet wide, and nearly choked up
with fallen trees.
Whilst the horses were coming up, I set off, accompanied by Mr.
Cunningham, for the purpose of ascending Mount Porteous: the view from
it by no means repaid us for our trouble; the same everlasting flats met
our eye in every direction westerly round nearly to north, in which
quarter the horizon was occasionally studded with hills, at too great a
distance to render them objects of interest to us. The immediate
vicinity of the river was free from timber or brush in various places;
and these tracts have hitherto received the particular denomination of
PLAINS, which might with equal propriety be extended to the whole
country. The bases of the hills and ranges were invariably a barren red
sand, affording nourishment to a few miserable cypresses and eucalypti
dumosa; between which, and filling up all the intermediate spaces, grows
a variety of acacia and dwarf shrubs, rendering those parts nearly a
thicket. Within one hundred yards of the bank of the river, and there
alone, were seen the only timber trees we had met with in the country;
if huge unshapen eucalypti, which would not afford a straight plank ten
feet long, may be so denominated.
