Would be rejected equally by horses
and by men, that I much fear we shall not be able to proceed much
further; but my mind is made up to persevere until the last horse fails
us, keeping that course which, although inclining to the westward, will
bring us out upon the coast upon a nearer line than Cape Northumberland,
which I intended to steer for when we quitted the Lachlan River.
Sent back assistance to the man and horse left under Mount Caley, and at
eight o'clock they returned.
After searching in every direction, no water was found, except in a
small hole evidently dug by the natives under Mount Brogden, and
containing scarcely sufficient for the people.
June 4. - Weather as usual fine and clear, which is the greatest comfort
we enjoy in these deserts, abandoned as they seem to be by every living
creature capable of getting out of them. I was obliged to send the
horses back to our former halting-place for water, a distance of near
eight miles: this is terrible for the horses, who are in general
extremely reduced; but two in particular cannot, I think, endure this
miserable existence much longer.
At five o'clock, two men, whom I had sent to explore the country to the
south-west and see if any water could be found, returned, after
proceeding six or seven miles: they found it impossible to go any
farther in that direction or even south, from the thick brushes that
intersected their course on every side; and no water (nor in fact the
least sign of any) was discovered either by them, or by those who were
sent in search of it nearer to our little camp.
No other trace of inhabitants (besides the well from which we derive our
supply of water) has hitherto been seen: no game of any kind, nor grass
to support any, have resulted from the various routes and observations
of the different persons who were employed for that purpose during the
day. I almost despair of finding any, for the country being perfectly
level (some few elevated stations excepted), and the soil a deep loose
red sand, the rain which falls must be immediately absorbed, and indeed
it is quite impossible that water should remain on the surface of the
land which we have travelled over since we have left the river.
At the period we quitted the river I considered our height above the
level of the sea to be about five hundred feet, an elevation too
trifling to afford a hope that any streams could rise in these regions
and flow thence into the sea. In traversing these flats, the declivity,
when it could be observed, was always towards the west and north-west,
obliging me to believe that either the country continued a desert of
sand as at present, or that its westerly inclination would cause all
that part of it to consist of marshes and swamps. Since quitting the
river we have not enjoyed what under any other circumstances would be
called drinkable water; what was found being merely the contents of
shallow mud holes, in the bottom of acacia swamps, over which the
dryness of the season alone enabled us to travel. We have uniformly been
obliged to strain our water before we drank it, and its taste, from the
decayed vegetable matter it contained, was sour and unpleasant.
June 5. - A clear cold frosty morning: sent the horses to the watering
place: if it be any way possible to get them on, it is my intention to
proceed to-morrow morning, as it is almost as much labour to them to go
for water as it would be to perform a short day's journey.
From every thing I can see of the country to the south-west, it appears,
upon the most mature deliberation, highly imprudent to persevere longer
in that direction, as the consequences to the horses of want of water
and grass might be most serious; and we are well assured that within
forty miles on that point the country is the same as before passed over.
In adopting a north-westerly course, it is my intention to be entirely
guided by the possibility of procuring subsistence for the horses, that
being the main point on which all our ulterior proceedings must hinge.
It is however to be expected that as the country is certainly lower to
the west and north-west than from south-east to south-west, there is a
greater probability of finding water in this latter direction. In our
present perplexing situation, however, it is impossible to lay down any
fixed plan, as (be it what it may) circumstances after all must guide us.
Our horses are unable to go more than eight or ten miles a day, but even
then they must be assured of finding food, of which, in these deserts,
the chances are against the existence.
Yesterday, being the King's birthday, Mr. Cunningham planted under Mount
Brogden acorns, peach and apricot-stones, and quince-seeds, with the
hope rather than the expectation that they would grow and serve to
commemorate the day and situation, should these desolate plains be ever
again visited by civilized man, of which, however, I think there is very
little probability.
Our observation placed the situation of the tent in lat. 34. 13. 33. S.,
long. 146. E.; the variation of the compass 8. 08. E.
June 6. - A mild pleasant morning: set forward on our journey to the
westward and north-west, in hopes of finding a better country: at two
o'clock halted about two miles from Peel's range, after going about
eight miles through a very thick cypress scrub; the country equally bad
as on any of the foregoing days.
