On The 29th The Sea Was So Calm That There Was Not A Ripple On Its
Surface, And Nothing Worth Noting Occurred Until December 1st, When A
Large Spermaceti Whale Passed, And At 3 P.M. A Seal.
At 5 P.M. another
appeared; this seal swam after the ship for some time, gazing after it in
a curious way and shaking its head as it leapt from the water.
On
December 2nd the birds which till then had followed the ship disappeared,
and in the evening a horse-fly settled on the main-sail and showed that
land was near. The same night heavy squalls arose and blew until morning.
At 8 A.M., to the great joy of all on board, land was sighted from the
masthead. It appeared to take the form of four islands, some six or seven
leagues distant. At noon the ship was in 38 degrees 10 minutes south and
longitude by account 142 degrees 30 minutes east, and the following notes
are recorded in the journal of Lieutenant Grant,* as his first impression
of the land of New Holland (Australia). (* The Journals and logbooks are
not printed in extenso. A few passages of minor importance that in no way
affect the general course of the narrative have, for want of space, been
omitted.)
THE LADY NELSON TO PORT JACKSON.
"December 3rd, 1800. At daylight made all possible sail judging myself to
be in latitude of 38 degrees south.* (* (Note in log.) Longitude worked
back 141 degrees 20 minutes east.) At 8 A.M. saw the land from north to
east-north-east appearing like unconnected islands, being four in number,
which on our near approach turned out to be two capes and two high
mountains a considerable way inshore. One of them was very like the Table
Hill at the Cape of Good Hope, the other stands farther into the country.
Both are covered with large trees as is also the land which is low and
flat as far as the eye can reach. I named the first of these mountains
after Captain Schanck and the other Gambier's Mountain. The first cape I
called Northumberland, after His Grace the Duke of Northumberland.
Another smaller, but very conspicuous jut of the land, which we plainly
saw when abreast of Cape Northumberland I named Cape Banks.* (* Grant
named the two points first sighted Cape Northumberland and Cape Banks and
the two mountains behind Mount Gambier and Mount Schanck, names they all
still bear. Grant came in sight of Australia near to the present boundary
of Victoria and South Australia.) When the former Cape bears north-west
by west distant 8 or 9 miles, Schanck's Mountain loses its table form and
appears like a saddle. There does not appear to be a harbour here, but
vessels may find shelter under Cape Northumberland from north and
north-north-west winds. The shore is in general a flat sandy beach, the
sea at present making no breach upon it.
"December 4th. As we stood along the shore steering eastward, the land as
far as we could see bearing south-east. Hauled close up for it. This
forming a conspicuous cape, I named it Bridgewater* after the Duke of
that title. (* This cape has been described since as having "a bald pate
and shoulders besprinkled with white sand." Cape Bridgewater forms with
Cape Northumberland another bend called Discovery Bay where the tides
meet and create a very turbulent sea. The bay receives the waters of the
River Glenelg.) The shore is a sandy beach from where we made the land to
this cape, with bushes and large woods inland. Finding we could not
weather Cape Bridgewater, got four oars on the lee side, which were
employed all night. At daybreak in the morning we weathered the cape when
another cape appeared bearing east by north about 15 or 16 miles distant
forming with Cape Bridgewater a very deep bay and to appearance had
shelter for anchorage. The land appeared beautiful, rising gradually and
covered with wood. Being anxious to examine whether it was safe to
venture in or not, I ordered a boat out and took two hands with me armed.
"After getting inshore about five miles we found there was not any
shelter from southerly winds; the water was very deep and apparently so
all the way in. We plainly saw several fires. At noon it was a matter of
great doubt whether we should not be forced to anchor - the bay being very
deep we could hardly clear it even with a steady breeze. Our latitude was
38 degrees 20 minutes south. Cape Bridgewater then bearing north-west by
west 12 or 13 miles. I called the other Cape, Nelson, after the vessel.
"December 5th. Saw several fires. This is a very deep bay and with
southerly winds ought carefully to be avoided. Cape Nelson bears from
Cape Bridgewater east-north-east 15 or 16 miles. The country is
beautiful, apparently a good soil, plenty of grass, and fine woods.
Towards evening saw many fires a little way inland. Many seals and
porpoises about to-day. At 5 A.M. saw another cape not unlike the Deadman
in the English Channel: it runs a considerable way into the sea. When to
the west it appears like a long barn arched on the top with a high bluff
and next the sea resembling the gable end of a house. I named the land
Sir William Grant's Cape.* (* Lieutenant Grant also called this cape,
Cape Solicitor. This name did not survive - the cape being known as Cape
Sir W. Grant.) Off this Cape are two small islands (the largest appears
like two) having two hummocks joined together by a neck of low land which
is not seen till pretty close. On approaching, the smaller island is
seen - a little nearer the shore. These I called Lawrence's Islands after
Captain Lawrence, one of the Elder Brethren of Trinity House. As they
will be an excellent mark for making this part...and Cape Northumberland,
and being very remarkable, navigators will know where they are as they
draw abreast of them, the largest being to the Southwards.
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