Narrative Of The Overland Expedition Of The Messrs. Jardine, From Rockhampton To Cape York, Northern Queensland By Frank Jardine And Alexander Jardine
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They procured water in the
main channel of the river, on the south side. During the journey at
every camp where there was timber, Mr. Jardine cut (or caused to be
cut) its number with a chisel into the wood of a tree, in Roman
numerals, and his initials generally in a shield.
'October' 14. - The distance travelled to-day was only 11 miles, but
described by Mr. Jardine, as equal to 20 of fair travelling ground.
The course lay over very stony quartz and granite ridges, which could
not be avoided, as they ran into the river, whilst the bed of the
stream would have been as difficult, being constantly crossed by
rocky bars, and filled by immense boulders. The grass was very
scarce, the blacks having burnt it all along the river. There were
patches where it never grows at all, presenting the appearance of an
earthern floor. They encamped at the junction of Canal Creek, under
the shade of some magnificent Leichhardt trees ('Nauclea
Leichhardtii') that grow there, without other water than what they
dug for in the sandy bed, and reached at a depth of two feet. On the
opposite side and about a mile from the junction there is a swamp,
splendidly grassed, which looked like a green barley field, but the
water was too salt for the horses to drink, an unusual thing in
granite country. The timber of the ridges was cheifly stunted hollow
iron-bark, that of the river, bloodwood, and the apple-gum, described
as so good for forging purposes; there was a total absence of those
tall well-grown gums, by which the course of a stream may usually be
traced from a distance. So little was the river defined by the
timber that it could not be distinguished at a half-a-mile away.
'October' 15. - The party moved to-day as far as the swamp mentioned
on the 19th September. It received the name of "Cawana Swamp," and
is described as the best and prettiest camping place they had yet
seen. It is surrounded by the high stoney range called Jorgensen's
Range on two sides, north and east, whilst on the south and east it
is hemmed in by a stretch of cellular basalt, which makes it almost
unapproachable. The only easy approach is by the river from the
westward. It is six miles round, and so shallow that the cattle fed
nearly a mile towards the middle. The party travelled out of the
direct course to avoid the stones, keeping the narrow flats occuring
between the river and ridges, which averaged about 200 yards in
width; when intercepted by the ridges running into the river, they
followed down its bed which is more clearly defined by oak
('Casuarinae') and Leichhardt trees than up the stream. The improved
travelling allowed them to make the stage of 9 miles in less than
four hours, and turn out early. Several large flocks of galaas
('Cacatua Rosea,') were seen, and Alexander Jardine shot a wallaby.
Before starting, Barney, one of the black-boys had to be corrected by
the Leader for misconduct, which had the effect of restoring
discipline. On reaching Cawana Swamp, the fires of the natives were
found quite fresh, from which it would seem that they had decamped on
the approach of the party, leaving plenty of birrum-burrongs, or
bee-eaters ('Merops Ornatus, Gould') behind them. An observation
taken at night gave the latitude 18 degrees 1 minute 59 seconds,
which gave about 41 miles of Northing.
'October' 16. - The cattle were started away at a quarter-to-four
o'clock, this morning, and found an excellent passage through
Jorgensen's Range, by "Simon's Gap." The track from this point to
the junction of Warroul and Parallel Creeks with the river (where the
camp was pitched) was very winding, from having to avoid the basalt,
which was laming some of the cattle, besides wrenching off the heads
of the horse-shoe nails: it could not be altogether avoided, and
made it past noon before the cattle reached the camp. A native
companion, a rock wallaby, and a young red kangaroo were the result
of the hunting in the afternoon, which saved the necessity of having
to kill a beast: this would have been specially inconvenient, if not
impossible here, for the natives had burnt all the grass, and there
was not a bite of feed for either horses or cattle, had they halted.
About 50 blacks, all men, followed the tracks of the party from
Cawana Swamp: they were painted, and fully armed, which indicated a
disposition for a "brush" with the white intruders; on being turned
upon, however, they thought better of it, and ran away. The camp was
formed under a red stony bluff, which received the name of
"Cowderoy's Bluff," after one of the party; whilst a large round hill
bearing E.N.E. from the camp was called "Barney's Nob." In the
afternoon Mr. Binney and Eulah were sent to the river to fish, but as
they ate all the caught, there was no gain to the party. For this
their lines were taken from them by Mr. Jardine, and they got a
"talking to," the necessity for which was little creditable to the
white man. The thermometer at 5 a.m. stood at 80 degrees. The day's
stage about 10 miles N.N.W. Some banksias, currijong, and
stringy-bark were noticed to-day, the latter is not a common timber
in the northern districts.
'October' 17. - All the horses were away this morning: as might
have been expected, the poor hungry creatures had strayed back
towards the good feed on Cawana Swamp, and were found 5 miles from
the camp. The day's stage was the worst they had yet had. The
country down Parallel Creek has already been described, and it took
six of the party five hours to get the cattle over three-and-a-half
miles of ground:
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