Narrative Of The Overland Expedition Of The Messrs. Jardine, From Rockhampton To Cape York, Northern Queensland By Frank Jardine And Alexander Jardine
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2. The Portion Of The Country To Which My Observations Will
Particularly Apply Is That Which, I Think, May Correctly
Be termed
the "York Peninsula proper," and comprises the land lying to the
northward of a line drawn from the
Estuary of the Kennedy River, at
the head of Newcastle Bay, to the opposite or north-west coast. The
general course of the Kennedy River runs in this line, and from the
head of the tideway to the north-west coast the breadth of land does
not exceed six miles. The mouth of the river falling into the sea a
short distance to the southward of Barn Island will be nearly met by
the western extremity of this line.
3. The land on the neck thus formed presents singular features.
There is no defined or visible water shed; a succession of low
irregular ridges, divided by swampy flats, extends from coast to
coast, and the sources of the streams running into either overlap in
a most puzzling manner. The large ant-hills which are spread over
the whole of this country may be taken as sure indicators of the
nature of the soils; on the ridges a reddish sandy loam, intermixed
with iron-stone gravel, prevails; on the flats a thin layer of
decomposed vegetable matter overlays a white sand, bearing
'Melaleuca' and 'Pandanus', with a heavy undergrowth of a plant much
resembling tall heath. Nearly every flat has its stream of clear
water; the elegant "pitcher" plant grows abundantly on the margins.
The timber is poor and stunted, chiefly bloodwood and 'grevillea';
and the grass is coarse and wiry.
4. Leaving this neck of barren and uninteresting country, the land
to the northward rises, and a distinct division or spine is formed,
ending in Cape York. From it, on either side, spurs run down to the
coast, frequently ending in abrupt precipices overhanging the sea; in
other places gradually declining to the narrow belt of flat land
which occasionally borders the shore. The formation is, I may say,
entirely sandstone, overlaid in many places by a layer of lava-like
ironstone. Porphyry occurs occasionally in large masses, split and
standing erect in large columns, at a distance resembling basalt.
The sandstone is of the coarsest quality, almost a conglomerate, and
is soft and friable; exposure to the air might probably harden it if
quarried, when it would be available for rough building. The ridges,
with very few exceptions, are topped with large blocks of ferruginous
sandstone, irregularly cast about, and are covered with a thick
scrub, laced and woven together with a variety of vines and climbers,
while the small valleys intervening bear a strong growth of tall
grass, through which numerous creeping plants twine in all
directions, some of them bearing beautiful flowers. Among them I may
particularise two species of 'Ipomea', which I believe to be
undescribed, and a vine-like plant, bearing clusters of fruit much
resembling in appearance black Hambro Grapes, wholesome and pleasant
to the taste.
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