Narrative Of The Overland Expedition Of The Messrs. Jardine, From Rockhampton To Cape York, Northern Queensland By Frank Jardine And Alexander Jardine
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The Timber, Bloodwood,
Mahogany, Stringy-Bark, And Nonda.
'March' 13.
- A late start was made to-day, for some of the horses
were away. The camp was formed on the banks of the lake
before-mentioned, 8 miles from Somerset, Chappagynyah, which is
described as teeming with crocodiles. tThe next day the party
reached their final resting place, probably not without some
exhiliration in feeling that their journey was over. They were met
at Baronto, by Mr. Jardine, who had ridden out from Somerset for the
purpose. The camp was established at Vallack Point, where the
wearied horses and cattle at length found rest, whilst their drivers
were able to indulge in the unwonted luxuries of regular feeding and
uninterrupted sleep: luxuries which few but those who have
experienced hunger and broken rest can fully appreciate. They had
been on the road for 5 months, travelled over 1600 miles, the last
250 of which were, as we have seen, performed on foot, and by most of
the party barefooted, whilst for the last four weeks their food had
consisted chiefly of jerked veal, fish without salt, and the wild
fruits and herbs they might find in the bush. In addition to the
distance travelled over by the whole party, and over which the cattle
were driven, the Brothers traversed more than 1200 miles in their
exploratory trips ahead, looking for the lost horses, etc. Alexander
Jardine's journey down the Einasleih alone amounted to little less
than 300. It may be imagined, therefore, that the return to the
habits and fare of civilized life must have been an agreeable change.
After an interval employed by the Brothers in forming a station at
Vallack Point, they returned with their father to Brisbane, in H.M.S.
Salamander, leaving their younger brother, John, in charge of the
newly-formed station, where the cattle were doing well. Mr.
Richardson left in the same vessel, and on arriving in Brisbane
immediately set to work to chart the route. Having every facility at
hand in the office of the Surveyor-General, the error of the river
Lynd was rectified, and a map compiled, shewing the route, from which
that now presented to the reader has been reduced. A glance at it
will shew that a large tract of unexplored country exists between the
track of the Jardines and that of Kennedy, which affords ample scope
for, and may possibly repay future explorations. Already stock is on
the road to occupy country on the lower Einasleih, and it is not
improbable that before long the rich valley of the Archer will add
its share to the pastoral wealth of Queensland.
FINIS.
***
[Plate: SOMERSET CAPE YORK. Lithograph.]
APPENDIX
THE MELALEUCA ('Tea-tree Gum M. Leucodendron.')
This tree, of which there are several varieties, is very common to
Northern Australia; the drooping kind ('Melaleuca Leucodendron'),
occupying the beds and margins of the rivers, where its long pendant
branches weeps the stream, as does the graceful willow of Europe.
Its bark is in thin paper-like layers, whilst its leaves are like
that of the gum, but thinner and straighter. It is remarkable for
containing an extraordinary quantity of brackish water, which pours
out in a torrent, when the bark is cut through, to the extent of from
a quart to a gallon. Another variety is found chiefly in flat sandy
country and shallow swamps. It is much smaller than that of the
rivers, and the leaves broader, stiff, and upright, its blossoms
nearly the same. It is indifferently called weeping gum, tea-tree
gum, and tea-tree, although it is in no way allied to the latter. It
is with the upright kind that the arid levels of the Staaten are
chiefly timbered.
GARRAWAN.
This scrub, one of the numerous family of accacia, which together
with the pandanus, gave the travellers so much annoyance on their
journey, occupies a large extent of country about the Richardson
range, from the Batavia to Cape York. It much resembles, and is
probably identical with that which grows in the neighbourhood of
Sydney, to the appearance of which, indeed, that part of the
Peninsula closely resembles.
FLOCK PIGEON OF THE GULF ('Phaps Histrionica.')
These beautiful pigeons which are alluded to by Leichhardt, are at
certain seasons found in immense flocks in the plain country about
the Gulf of Carpentaria. Their range is wide, as in 1846 they
appeared in flocks of countless multitudes on the Murrimbidgee River,
N.S.W., probably driven from their usual regions by drought. They
are described and figured in Mr. Gould's great work on the Australian
birds.
THE EINASLEIH.
This river was erroneously supposed by its first settlers to be the
Lynd of Leichhardt. That such was not the case, was proved by
Alexander Jardine, who traced it down for 180 miles from Carpentaria
Downs, when he turned back, within about a day's stage of its
junction with the Gilbert, fully satisfied that it could not be the
Lynd. Since then it has, I believe, been traced into the Gilbert,
and thence to the Gulf. Its importance would lead to the supposition
that it was the principal branch of the Gilbert. There is an
excellent cattle country on the lower part, as described in the text
which has probably ere this been occupied by our pioneers.
THE NONDA ('Parinarium Nonda. F. Mueller.')
This tree so named by Leichhardt's black-boys (described in Bentham's
'Flora Australiensis'), is very abundant north of the Einasleih,
which is possibly the extreme latitude of its zone south. It formed
an important accession to the food of the party, and it is highly
probable that their good health may be attributable to the quantity
of fruit, of which this was the principal, which they were able to
procure, there being no case of scurvy during the journey, a
distemper frequently engendering in settled districts, when there is
no possibility of varying the diet with vegetables. The foliage of
the tree is described as of a bright green, the fruit very abundant,
and much eaten by the natives.
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