Narrative Of The Overland Expedition Of The Messrs. Jardine, From Rockhampton To Cape York, Northern Queensland By Frank Jardine And Alexander Jardine
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Its South Bank Was
So Densely Covered With Vine Scrub, That They Had To Walk And Cut
Their Way Through It With Their Tomahawks.
After crossing it, the
country suddenly changed to thickly timbered sandy ridges, some being
rocky, of course sandstone, the more elevated ones having belts of
impenetrable scrub running along their crest.
At 12 miles a fine
sheet of water was passed, surrounded by sandy coarsely-grassed
ridges. At 15 miles, from a line of high ridges forming a
saddle-range, they had a view of the ocean, and could distinguish a
few small islands out to sea. It might have been seen sooner but for
the drizzling rain which fell with little intermission. The range
was of red soil, timbered with bloodwood, and stringy-bark. Two
miles further on the country improved still more, continuing from
thence into their camp, 6 miles. The course was altered from the
range to N. by E., and at 20 miles a white hill was reached, from
which they looked down on the sea about half-a-mile distant beneath
them. This was Newcastle Bay. Turning westward and skirting the
coast, they travelled 3 miles further on, and camped on a palm creek,
with very steep banks. Large flocks of the Torres Strait pigeons
flew over in the evening. Distance travelled 23 miles.
'February' 7. - The good country traversed yesterday ceased at a
creek half-a-mile from the camp, on crossing which the party had to
cut their way as usual, after which the course skirting the coast lay
over a villainous country, boggy swamps, brushwood and scrub. After
travelling 7 or 8 miles their progress was arrested by a large stream
three-quarters-of-a-mile in width, running rapidly from the W.N.W.
Its banks were low and muddy, covered with a wide belt of dense
mangroves, its muddy and swollen waters carrying down quantities of
rubbish. This they correctly surmised to be the mouth of the
veritable "Escape" but Frank Jardine was again in error in supposing
it to be the same stream that they had left the cattle on. Seeing so
large a stream he naturally reverted to the idea that it had turned
on itself, and that their first exploration had stopped before
reaching the turning point. His case was dispiriting in the extreme.
The main camp was not more than 15 miles in latitude south of his
present position. The Settlement, the long-wished end of their
journey, could not be more than 20 to the North, yet his progress was
arrested by a broad and rapid river, to head the supposed bend of
which he had ineffectually travelled nearly 50 miles. His plan was
now to follow the Escape up in hopes of being able to cross at the
head of the tide, and so reach Somerset, but this, as will be seen,
was more easily planned than executed. Following up the course of
the river the way lay over a country which Alexander Jardine mentions
in his notes as "too bad to describe," pandanus swamps, vine scrubs,
and small creeks swollen by the rains to a swimmable depth,
succeeding one another along the whole stage. At the latter the
horses had always to be unpacked and their saddles taken over on the
heads of the party. Three hours were consumed in cutting their way
through the last of the vine scrubs, when they camped on the outside,
three of the horses being completely knocked up. The Brothers then
walked to the river in hopes of finding a crossing place. This
however, proved hopeless. A thick matted fringe of mangroves nearly
three miles wide intervened between them and its bank, through which
it was next to impossible to make any headway. Their supper to-night
was augmented by a lucky "find" during the day of thirteen scrub
turkeys' eggs, which, though they would scarcely have been
appreciated at an ordinary breakfast table, were very acceptable to
tired and hungry travellers existing principally on jerked beef.
Eating what yolk or white they contained, they plucked and roasted
the chicks as a "bonne-bouche." Fires had to be kept going day and
night to drive away, and protect the poor miserable horses from the
march and sand-flies by day, and mosquitoes by night. These were, in
fact, the principal cause of the poverty and debility of the poor
brutes, who could never get a moment's rest to feed or sleep.
Twenty-two miles were accomplished to-day, despite their difficulties.
'February' 8. - The journey was continued to-day up the Escape, the
course of which was very crooked, but generally N.W. by N. The
horses knocked up a few miles after starting. The party were
therefore obliged to walk and drive them before them. The country
traversed was similar to that of yesterday, so that they could not
get more than a-mile-and-a-half an hour out of the poor jaded beasts.
Three times they tried to make into the river bank, but without
success, from the great width and the density of the belt of
mangroves, and the soft mud. An old black's camp was passed in which
they found heaps of shells, turtle, and shark bones. In the evening
they caught a quantity of whelks and cockles, which, with an iguana,
and three turkeys' eggs, made a good supper.
'February' 9. - The course of the river to-day was even more crooked
than yesterday, the nature of the country continuing the same, save
that the swampy ground was occasionally broken by ridges of
bloodwood, and stringy-bark. From a tree on one of these they had a
fine view of Newcastle Bay, and what was supposed to be Mount
Adolphus Island, the latter about 25 miles away, and could trace the
course of the river to where it debouched, by the stretch of
mangroves. Here, therefore, they were within 20 miles of their
destination, which they were tantalised by seeing, without being able
to reach.
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