Narrative Of The Overland Expedition Of The Messrs. Jardine, From Rockhampton To Cape York, Northern Queensland By Frank Jardine And Alexander Jardine
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'January' 4. - A heavy storm of rain and thunder having been
experienced last night, the party made a short day's stage, and
camped early to enable them to dry their meat, saddlery, bags, etc.,
which had been thoroughly soaked. The horses backs too, were getting
sore from the use of wet saddles, and themselves tired. The course
was north, over stringy-bark and bloodwood ridges for 5 miles, to a
large running creek named Micketeeboomulgeiai,* from the north-east,
on which a crossing had to be cut; a mile-and-a-half further on, an
ana-branch was crossed, and the party camped. (Camp LX. Bloodwood.)
[footnote]*In the Wellington Dialect "place where the lightning struck."
'January' 5. - Still raining and wet to-day. A table-land of open
sandy ridges was traversed to a high point, the edge of which was
reached in five miles on a course N. by E. On reaching this point a
range was seen in front, extending east and west about 10 miles off,
between which and the party, a fine valley extended, traversed by a
large sandy river, which was named the Archer, in honor of Messrs.
Archer, of Gracemere. The river Archer flows from the north-east,
through a valley of great richness and beauty, and considered by the
explorers to be the best country for cattle seen north of Broadsound.
The banks of the river are fringed by a thick belt of vine-scrub,
containing very many Leichhardt and other handsome trees and shrubs
of great luxuriance and growth. The valley is also described as
being the first locality where any varities of flowers were seen,
some were of great beauty, particularly a bulb which bears a large
flower, shaped like a larkspur, of every tinge of red, from a
delicate pink to a rich purple. After crossing the Archer two
ana-branches were passed, the route laying over loamy black and
chocolate flats, and fine long sloping ridges, very thickly grassed,
quite free from stones, well-watered, and despite the heavy rains
that had fallen, perfectly sound. The range seen from the table-land
was low, and of much the same description. Distance travelled 15
miles N. by E. (Camp LXI. Applegum.)
'January' 6. - The march to-day was very trying to the poor horses,
being chiefly over rotten melon-hole country, of a yellow clayey
soil, timbered with stunted bloodwood and pandanus, the rain pouring
down all day. At two miles from camp a large creek was crossed
containing a little rain water, and subsequently nine or ten small
deep waterless creeks, their beds too sandy to be retentive. On one
of these the wearied party camped at the end of 16 or 17 miles. A
range 8 or 9 miles to the East, was sighted during the day.
Notwithstanding the rain, barely sufficient water was found at the
camp. Distance 17 miles. Course North. (Camp LXII. Poplar gum.)
'January' 7. - At rather more than a mile from camp, two branches of
a large deep creek, were crossed just above its junction. It runs
from W. by N., had a little water in it, and the usual fringe of dark
green vine scrub, interspersed with Leichhardt trees. A hill on the
north bank covered with large sandstone boulders, marks the
crossing-place of the party. Numerous small water-courses similar to
those of yesterday, were crossed to-day. The country slightly
improved but was of the same character, waterless but for the showers
of rain. I was strange to see the horses bogging leg deep during a
thunder-storm, and in five minutes after unable to get a drink of
water. Large red funnel-shaped ant-hills were seen, in some
instances as high as 18 to 20 feet. The timber in addition to the
usual varities comprised zamias, iron bark, acacia, pandanus, mimosa,
sterculia [(Currijong'), grevillia, coral, ('Erythrina'), and Nonda
('Walrothia') trees. Scrub turkeys ('Talegalla Lathami'), wonga
wongas, and Torres Straits pigeon were seen. The party camped at the
end of 15 miles in a shallow tea-tree gulley, with a little water
from last night's rain in its sandy bed, supplying themselves with
drinking water from the rain, caught by the tents. Course North.
(Camp LXIII. Acacia.)
'January' 8. - The first 15 miles travelled over to-day were good
undulating forest country, timbered chiefly with box and applegum,
and a few iron-barks, and intersected with numerous canal-like
creeks, running north-west, but without water; the last three miles
was wretchedly bad, being similar to the tea-tree country of the
Staaten. The whole country between the Archer and Staaten is without
water, save immediately after rain, sufficiently heavy to set the
creeks running. The party camped on a small tea-tree "Gilgai," or
shallow water pan, and experienced another night of heavy rain with
high wind. Two more horses, Rasper and N'gress were found knocked
up. Distance 18 miles. Course N. The latitude of the camp was
ascertained to be 12 degrees 38 minutes 2 seconds. (Camp LXIV.
Bloodwood.)
'January' 9. - The fact of high land being observed to the west of
the course, and that the creeks all flowed eastward, induced the
party to think that they were near on the eastern slope of the
peninsula. This idea, however, was dispelled on their reaching at
the end of ten miles, a large river which was supposed to be the
Coen. It was running strongly W.N.W., and seemed distinctly to
divide the good and bad country, that on the south side being richly
grassed, open and lightly timbered, lucerne and other fine herbs
occurring frequently, whilst on the north side it relapsed into the
old barren tea-tree country of which so much had been traversed.
Considerable time was lost by the party in cutting a road for the
cattle through the thick scrub that fringes its banks, a kind of work
which was now becoming familiar. The Coen is about sixty yards wide,
sandy, and contains crocodiles.
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