The Stones With Which The Walls Were Made That Inclosed
This Mount, Were Some Of Them Nine Or Ten Feet By Four, And About Six
Inches Thick.
It is difficult to conceive how they can cut such stones out
of the coral rocks.
This mount stood in a kind of grove open only on the side which fronted the
high road, and the green on which the people were seated. At this green or
open place, was a junction of five roads, two or three of which appeared to
be very public ones. The groves were composed of several sorts of trees.
Among others was the Etoa tree, as it is called at Otaheite, of
which are made clubs, &c. and a kind of low palm, which is very common in
the northern parts of New Holland.
After we had done examining this place of worship, which in their language
is called A-fia-tou-ca, we desired to return; but, instead of
conducting us to the water-side as we expected, they struck into a road
leading into the country. This road, which was about sixteen feet broad,
and as level as a bowling-green, seemed to be a very public one; there
being many other roads from different parts, leading into it, all inclosed
on each side, with neat fences made of reeds, and shaded from the scorching
sun by fruit trees, I thought I was transported into the most fertile
plains in Europe. There was not an inch of waste ground; the roads occupied
no more space than was absolutely necessary; the fences did not take up
above four inches each; and even this was not wholly lost, for in many were
planted some useful trees or plants. It was everywhere the same; change of
place altered not the scene. Nature, assisted by a little art, no where
appears in more splendour than at this isle. In these delightful walks we
met numbers of people; some travelling down to the ships with their burdens
of fruit; others returning back empty. They all gave us the road, by
turning either to the right or left, and sitting down or standing, with
their backs to the fences, till we had passed.
At several of the cross-roads, or at the meeting of two or more roads, were
generally Afiatoucas, such as already described; with this
difference, the mounts were pallisadoed round, instead of a stone wall. At
length, after walking several miles, we came to one larger than common;
near to which was a large house belonging to an old chief, in our company.
At this house we were desired to stop, which we accordingly did, and were
treated with fruit, &c.
We were no sooner seated in the house, than the eldest of the priests began
a speech or prayer, which was first directed to the Afiatouca, and
then to me, and alternately. When he addressed me, he paused at every
sentence, till I gave a nod of approbation. I, however, did not understand
one single word he said. At times, the old gentleman seemed to be at a loss
what to say, or perhaps his memory failed him; for, every now and then, he
was prompted by one of the other priests who sat by him. Both during this
prayer and the former one, the people were silent, but not attentive. At
this last place we made but a short stay. Our guides conducted us down to
our boat, and we returned with Attago to our ship to dinner. We had no
sooner got on board, than an old gentleman came alongside, who, I
understood from Attago, was some king or great man. He was, accordingly,
ushered on board; when I presented him with such things as he most valued
(being the only method to make him my friend,) and seated him at table to
dinner. We now saw that he was a man of consequence; for Attago would not
sit down and eat before him, but got to the other end of the table; and, as
the old chief was almost blind, he sat there, and eat with his back towards
him. After the old man had eaten a bit of fish, and drank two glasses of
wine, he returned ashore. As soon as Attago had seen him out of the ship,
he came and took his place at table, finished his dinner, and drank two
glasses of wine. When dinner was over, we all went ashore, where we found
the old chief, who presented me with a hog; and he and some others took a
walk with us into the country.
Before we set out, I happened to go down with Attago to the landing-place,
and there found Mr Wales in a laughable, though distressed situation. The
boats which brought us on shore, not being able to get near the landing-
place for want of a sufficient depth of water, he pulled off his shoes and
stockings to walk through, and as soon as he got on dry land, he put them
down betwixt his legs to put on again, but they were instantly snatched
away by a person behind him, who immediately mixed with the crowd. It was
impossible for him to follow the man barefooted over the sharp coral rocks,
which compose the shore, without having his feet cut to pieces. The boat
was put back to the ship, his companions had each made his way through the
crowd, and he left in this condition alone. Attago soon found out the
thief, recovered his shoes and stockings, and set him at liberty. Our route
into the country, was by the first-mentioned Afiatouca, before which
we again seated ourselves, but had no prayers, although the old priest was
with us. Our stay here was but short. The old chief, probably thinking that
we might want water on board, conducted us to a plantation hard by, and
shewed us a pool of fresh water, though we had not made the least enquiry
after any.
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