At two o'clock p.m. on the 1st of October, we made the island of
Middleburg, bearing W.S.W.; at six o'clock it extended from S.W, by W. to
N.W., distant four leagues, at which time another land was seen in the
direction of N.N.W. The wind being at S.S.E., I hauled to the south, in
order to get round the south end of the island before the morning; but at
eight o'clock a small island was seen lying off it, and not knowing but
they might be connected by a reef, the extent of which we must be ignorant
of, I resolved to spend the night where we were. At day-break the next
morning, we bore up for the S.W. side of Middleburg, passing between it and
the little isle above mentioned, where we found a clear channel two miles
broad.[1]
After ranging the S.W. side of the greater isle, to about two-thirds of its
length, at the distance of half a mile from the shore, without seeing the
least prospect of either anchorage or landing-place, we bore away for
Amsterdam, which we had in sight. We had scarcely turned our sails before
we observed the shores of Middleburg to assume another aspect, seeming to
offer both anchorage and landing. Upon this we hauled the wind, and plied
in under the island. In the mean time, two canoes, each conducted by two or
three men, came boldly alongside; and some of them entered the ship without
hesitation. This mark of confidence gave me a good opinion of these
islanders, and determined me to visit them, if possible.[2] After making a
few trips, we found good anchorage, and came to in twenty-five fathoms
water, and gravel bottom, at three cables' length from the shore. The
highest land on the island bore S.E. by E.; the north point N.E. 1/2 E.,
and the west S. by W. 1/2 W., and the island of Amsterdam extending from N.
by W. 1/2 W. to N.W. 1/2 W. We had scarcely got to an anchor before we were
surrounded by a great number of canoes full of people, who had brought with
them cloth, and other curiosities, which they exchanged for nails, &c.
Several came on board; among them was one whom, by the authority he seemed
to have over the others, I found was a chief, and accordingly made him a
present of a hatchet, spike-nails, and several other articles, with which
he was highly pleased. Thus I obtained the friendship of this chief, whose
name was Tioony.[3]
Soon after, a party of us embarked in two boats, in company with Tioony,
who conducted us to a little creek formed by the rocks, right abreast of
the ships, where landing was extremely easy, and the boats secure against
the surf. Here we found an immense crowd of people, who welcomed us on
shore with loud acclamations. Not one of them had so much as a stick, or
any other weapon in their hands; an indubitable sign of their pacific
intentions. They thronged so thick round the boats with cloth, matting, &c.
to exchange for nails, that it was some time before we could get room to
land. They seemed to be more desirous to give than receive; for many who
could not get near the boats, threw into them, over the others heads, whole
bales of cloth, and then retired, without either asking, or waiting for any
thing in return. At length the chief caused them to open to the right and
left, and make room for us to land.[4] He then conducted us up to his
house, which was situated about three hundred yards from the sea, at the
head of a fine lawn, and under the shade of some shaddock trees. The
situation was most delightful. In front was the sea, and the ships at
anchor; behind, and on each side, were plantations, in which were some of
the richest productions of Nature. The floor was laid with mats, on which
we were seated, and the people seated themselves in a circle round us on
the outside. Having the bagpipes with us, I ordered them to be played; and
in return, the chief directed three young women to sing a song, which they
did with a very good grace; and having made each of them a present, this
immediately set all the women in the circle a-singing. Their songs were
musical and harmonious, and nowise harsh or disagreeable.[5] After sitting
here some time, we were, at our own request, conducted into one of the
adjoining plantations, where the chief had another house, into which we
were introduced. Bananoes and cocoa-nuts were set before us to eat, and a
bowl of liquor prepared in our presence of the juice of Eava for us
to drink. Pieces of the root were first offered us to chew; but as we
excused ourselves from assisting in the operation, this was performed by
others. When sufficiently chewed, it was put into a large wooden bowl; then
mixed with water, in the manner already related; and as soon as it was
properly strained for drinking, they made cups, by folding of green leaves,
which held near half a pint, and presented to each of us one of these
filled with the liquor. But I was the only one who tasted it; the manner of
brewing it having quenched the thirst of every one else. The bowl was,
however; soon emptied of its contents, of which both men and women partook.
I observed that they never filled the same cup twice; nor did two persons
drink out of the same; each had a fresh cup and fresh liquor.
This house was situated at one corner of the plantation, and had an area
before it on which we were seated.
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