But After Running Four
Leagues Upon This Course, With The Ice On Our Starboard Side, We Found
Ourselves Quite Imbayed; The Ice Extending From N.N.E. Round By The West
And South, To East, In One Compact Body.
The weather was indifferently
clear; and yet we could see no end to it.
At five o'clock we hauled up
east, wind at north, a gentle gale, in order to clear the ice. The extreme
east point of it, at eight o'clock, bore E. by S., over which appeared a
clear sea. We however spent the night in making short boards, under an easy
sail. Thermometer, these 24 hours, from 32 to 30.
Next day, the 15th, we had the wind at N.W., a small gale, thick foggy
weather, with much snow; thermometer from 32 to 27; so that our sails and
rigging were all hung with icicles. The fog was so thick at times, that we
could not see the length of the ship; and we had much difficulty to avoid
the many islands of ice that surrounded us. About noon, having but little
wind, we hoisted out a boat to try the current, which we found set S.E.
near 3/4 of a mile an hour. At the same time, a thermometer, which in the
open air was at 32 deg., in the surface of the sea was at 30 deg.; and, after being
immerged 100 fathoms deep for about fifteen or twenty minutes, came up at
34 deg., which is only 2 deg. above freezing.[5] Our latitude at this time was 55 deg.
8'.
The thick fog continued till two o'clock in the afternoon of the next day,
when it cleared away a little, and we made sail to the southward, wind
still at N.W. a gentle gale. We had not run long to the southward before we
fell in with the main field of ice extending from S.S.W. to E. We now bore
away to east along the edge of it; but at night hauled off north, with the
wind at W.N.W., a gentle gale, attended with snow.
At four in the morning on the 17th, stood again to the south; but was again
obliged to bear up on account of the ice, along the side of which we
steered betwixt E. and S.S.W., hauling into every bay or opening, in hopes
of finding a passage to the south. But we found every where the ice closed.
We had a gentle gale at N.W. with showers of snow. At noon we were, by
observation, in the latitude of 55 deg. 16' S. In the evening the weather was
clear and serene. In the course of this day we saw many whales, one seal,
penguins, some of the white birds, another sort of peterel, which is brown
and white, and not much unlike a pintado; and some other sorts already
known. We found the skirts of the loose ice to be more broken than usual;
and it extended some distance beyond the main field, insomuch that we
sailed amongst it the most part of the day; and the high ice islands
without us were innumerable. At eight o'clock we sounded, but found no
ground with 250 fathoms of line. After this we hauled close upon a wind to
the northward, as we could see the field of ice extend as far as N.E. But
this happened not to be the northern point; for at eleven o'clock we were
obliged to tack to avoid it.
At two o'clock the next morning we stood again to the northward, with the
wind at N.W. by W., thinking to weather the ice upon this tack; on which we
stood but two hours, before we found ourselves quite imbayed, being then in
latitude 55 deg. 8', longitude 24 deg. 3'. The wind veering more to the north, we
tacked and stood to the westward under all the sail we could carry, having
a fresh breeze and clear weather, which last was of short duration. For at
six o'clock it became hazy, and soon after there was thick fog; the wind
veered to the N.E., freshened and brought with it snow and sleet, which
froze on the rigging as it fell. We were now enabled to get clear of the
field of ice: but at the same time we were carried in amongst the ice
islands, in a manner equally dangerous, and which with much difficulty we
kept clear of.
Dangerous as it is to sail among these floating rocks (if I may be allowed
to call them so) in a thick fog, this, however, is preferable to being
entangled with immense fields of ice under the same circumstances. The
great danger to be apprehended in this latter case, is the getting fast in
the ice; a situation which would be exceedingly alarming. I had two men on
board that had been in the Greenland trade; the one of them in a ship that
lay nine weeks, and the other in one that lay six weeks, fast in this kind
of ice, which they called packed ice. What they called field ice is
thicker; and the whole field, be it ever so large, consists of one piece.
Whereas this which I call field-ice, from its immense extent, consists of
many pieces of various sizes, both in thickness and surface, from thirty or
forty feet square to three or four, packed close together, and in places
heaped one upon another. This, I am of opinion, would be found too hard for
a ship's side, that is not properly armed against it. How long it may have
lain, or will lie here, is a point not easily determined. Such ice is found
in the Greenland seas all the summer long; and I think it cannot be colder
there in the summer, than it is here. Be this as it may, we certainly had
no thaw; on the contrary, the mercury in Fahrenheit's thermometer kept
generally below the freezing point, although it was the middle of summer.
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