43' E. The Calm Continued Till Noon The Next Day, During Which Time We
Observed The Variation To Be 10 Deg.
33' E. I now ordered the carpenters to
work to caulk the decks.
As we had neither pitch, tar, nor rosin, left to
pay the seams, this was done with varnish of pine, and afterwards covered
with coral sand, which made a cement far exceeding my expectation. In the
afternoon, we had a boat in the water, and shot two albatrosses, which were
geese to us. We had seen one of this kind of birds the day before, which
was the first we observed since we had been within the tropic. On the 7th,
at one p.m. a breeze sprung up at south; soon after it veered to, and fixed
at S.E. by S., and blew a gentle gale, attended with pleasant weather.
We stretched to W.S.W., and next day at noon were in the latitude of 28 deg.
25', longitude 170 deg. 26' E. In the evening, Mr Cooper haying struck a
porpoise with a harpoon, it was necessary to bring-to, and have two boats
out, before we could kill it, and get it on board. It was six feet long; a
female of that kind, which naturalists call dolphin of the ancients, and
which differs from the other kind of porpoise in the head and jaw, having
them long and pointed. This had eighty-eight teeth in each jaw. The haslet
and lean flesh were to us a feast. The latter was a little liverish, but
had not the least fishy taste. It was eaten roasted, broiled, and fried,
first soaking it in warm water. Indeed, little art was wanting to make any
thing fresh, palatable to those who had been living so long on salt
meat.[1]
We continued to stretch to W.S.W. till the 10th, when at day-break we
discovered land, bearing S.W., which on a nearer approach we found to be an
island of good height, and five leagues in circuit. I named it Norfolk
Isle, in honour of the noble family of Howard. It is situated in the
latitude of 29 deg. 2' 30" S. and longitude 168 deg. 16' E. The latter was
determined by lunar observations made on this, the preceding, and following
days; and the former by a good observation at noon, when we were about
three miles from the isle. Soon after we discovered the isle, we sounded in
twenty-two fathoms on a bank of coral sand; after this we continued to
sound, and found not less than twenty-two; or more than twenty-four fathoms
(except near the shore), and the same bottom mixed with broken shells.
After dinner a party of us embarked in two boats, and landed on the island,
without any difficulty, behind some large rocks, which lined part of the
coast on the N.E. side.
We found it uninhabited, and were undoubtedly the first that ever set foot
on it. We observed many trees and plants common at New Zealand; and, in
particular, the flax-plant, which is rather more luxuriant here than in any
part of that country; but the chief produce is a sort of spruce-pine, which
grows in great abundance, and to a large size, many of the trees being as
thick, breast high, as two men could fathom, and exceedingly straight and
tall. This pine is a sort between that which grows in New Zealand, and that
in New Caledonia; the foliage differing something from both, and the wood
not so heavy as the former, nor so light and close-grained as the latter.
It is a good deal like the Quebec pine. For about two hundred yards from
the shore, the ground is covered so thick with shrubs and plants, as hardly
to be penetrated farther inland. The woods were perfectly clear and free
from underwood, and the soil seemed rich and deep.
We found the same kind of pigeons, parrots, and parroquets as in New
Zealand, rails, and some small birds. The sea-fowl are, white boobies,
gulls, tern, &c. which breed undisturbed on the shores, and in the cliffs
of the rocks.
On the isle is fresh water; and cabbage-palm, wood-sorrel, sow-thistle, and
samphire, abounding in some places on the shore, we brought on board as
much of each sort as the time we had to gather them would admit. These
cabbage-trees or palms were not thicker than a man's leg, and from ten to
twenty feet high. They are of the same genus with the cocoa-nut tree; like
it they have large pinnated leaves, and are the same as the second sort
found in the northern parts of New South Wales. The cabbage is, properly
speaking, the bud of the tree; each tree producing but one cabbage, which
is at the crown, where the leaves spring out, and is inclosed in the stem.
The cutting off the cabbage effectually destroys the tree; so that no more
than one can be had from the same stem. The cocoa-nut tree, and some others
of the palm kind, produce cabbage as well as these. This vegetable is not
only wholesome, but exceedingly palatable, and proved the most agreeable
repast we had for some time.
The coast does not want fish. While we were on shore, the people in the
boats caught some which were excellent. I judged that it was high water at
the full and change, about one o'clock; and that the tide rises and falls
upon a perpendicular about four or five feet.
The approach of night brought us all on board, when we hoisted in the
boats, and stretched to E.N.E. (with the wind at S.E.) till midnight, when
we tacked, and spent the remainder of the night making short boards.
Next morning at sun-rise, we made sail, stretching to S.S.W., and weathered
the island; on the south side of which lie two isles, that serve as
roosting and breeding-places for birds.
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