As
Soon As This Was Done, We Hoisted Out A Boat, In Which I Went On Ashore,
Accompanied By The Botanists.
We found the tall trees to be a kind of
spruce pine, very proper for spars, of which we were in want.
After making
this discovery, I hastened on board in order to have more time after
dinner, when I landed again with two boats, accompanied by several of the
officers and gentlemen, having with us the carpenter and some of his crew,
to cut down such trees as were wanting. While this was doing I took the
bearings of several lands round. The hill on the Isle of Pines bore
S. 59 30' E; the low point of Queen Charlotte's Foreland N. 14 deg. 30' W.; the
high land over it, seen over two low isles, N. 20 deg. W.; and the most
advanced point of land to the west, bore west, half a point south, distant
six or seven leagues. We had, from several bearings, ascertained the true
direction of the coast from the foreland to this point, which I shall
distinguish by the name of Prince of Wales's Foreland. It is situated in
the latitude of 22 deg. 29' S., longitude 166 deg. 57' E., is of considerable
height, and, when it first appears above the horizon, looks like an island.
From this cape, the coast trended nearly N.W. This was rather too northerly
a direction to join that part which we saw from the hills of Balade. But as
it was very high land which opened off the cape in that direction, it is
very probable that lower land, which we could not see, opened sooner; or
else the coast more to the N.W. takes a more westerly direction, in the
same manner as the N.E. coast. Be this as it may, we pretty well know the
extent of the land, by having it confined within certain limits. However, I
still entertained hopes of seeing more of it, but was disappointed.
The little isle upon which we landed, is a mere sandbank, not exceeding
three-fourths of a mile in circuit, and on it, besides these pines, grew
the Etoa-tree of Otaheite, and a variety of other trees, shrubs, and
plants. These gave sufficient employment to our botanists, all the time we
stayed upon it, and occasioned my calling it Botany Isle. On it were
several water-snakes, some pigeons, and doves, seemingly different from any
we had seen. One of the officers shot a hawk, which proved to be of the
very same sort as our English fishing-hawks. Several fire-places, branches,
and leaves very little decayed, remains of turtle, &c. shewed that people
had lately been on the isle. The hull of a canoe, precisely of the same
shape as those we had seen at Balade, lay wrecked in the sand. We were now
no longer at a loss to know of what trees they make their canoes, as they
can be no other than these pines. On this little isle were some which
measured twenty inches diameter, and between sixty and seventy feet in
length, and would have done very well for a foremast to the Resolution, had
one been wanting. Since trees of this size are to be found on so small a
spot, it is reasonable to expect to find some much larger on the main, and
larger isles; and, if appearances did not deceive us, we can assert it.
If I except New Zealand, I, at this time, knew of no island in the South
Pacific Ocean, where a ship could supply herself with a mast or yard, were
she ever so much distressed for want of one. Thus far the discovery is or
may be valuable. My carpenter, who was a mast-maker as well as a ship-
wright, two trades he learnt in Deptford-yard, was of opinion that these
trees would make exceedingly good masts. The wood is white, close-grained,
tough, and light. Turpentine had exuded out of most of the trees, and the
sun had inspissated it into a rosin, which was found sticking to the
trunks, and lying about the roots. These trees shoot out their branches
like all other pines; with this difference, that the branches of these are
much smaller and shorter; so that the knots become nothing when the tree is
wrought for use. I took notice, that the largest of them had the smallest
and shortest branches, and were crowned, as it were, at the top, by a
spreading branch like a bush. This was what led some on board into the
extravagant notion of their being basaltes: Indeed no one could think of
finding such trees here. The seeds are produced in cones; but we could find
none that had any in them, or that were in a proper state for vegetation or
botanical examination. Besides these, there was another tree or shrub of
the spruce-fir kind, but it was very small. We also found on the isle a
sort of scurvy-grass, and a plant, called by us Lamb's Quarters, which,
when boiled, eat like spinnage.
Having got ten or twelve small spars to make studding-sail booms, boat-
masts, &c., and night approaching, we returned with them on board.
The purpose for which I anchored under this isle being answered, I was now
to consider what was next to be done. We had from the top-mast-head taken a
view of the sea around us, and observed the whole, to the west, to be
strewed with small islets, sand-banks, and breakers, to the utmost extent
of our horizon. They seemed indeed not to be all connected, and to be
divided by winding channels. But when I considered that the extent of this
S.W. coast was already pretty well determined, the great risk attending a
more accurate survey, and the time it would require to accomplish it, on
account of the many dangers we should have to encounter, I determined not
to hazard the ship down to leeward, where we might be so hemmed in as to
find it difficult to return, and by that means lose the proper season for
getting to the south.
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