Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central Australia And Overland From Adelaide To King George's Sound In The Years 1840-1: Sent By The Colonists Of South Australia By Eyre, Edward John
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Could The Donor,
However, Have Seen The Miserable Plight We Were Reduced To, He Would Have
Pitied And Forgiven An Act That Circumstances Alone Compelled Me To.
After all our arrangements were made, and every thing rejected that we
could do without, I found that the loads of the horses were reduced in
the aggregate about two hundred pounds; but this being divided among ten,
relieved each only a little.
Myself, the overseer, and the King George's
Sound native invariably walked the whole way, but the two younger natives
were still permitted to ride alternately upon one of the strongest
horses. As our allowance of flour was very small, and the fatigue and
exertion we were all obliged to undergo very great, I ordered a sheep to
be killed before we moved on again. We had been upon short allowance for
some time, and were getting weak and hardly able to go through the toils
that devolved upon us. Now, I knew that our safety depended upon that of
our horses, and that their lives again were contingent upon the amount of
fatigue we were ourselves able to endure, and the degree of exertion we
were capable of making to relieve them in extremity. I did not therefore
hesitate to make use of one of our three remaining sheep to strengthen us
for coming trials, instead of retaining them until perhaps they might be
of little use to us. The whole party had a hearty meal, and then,
watching the horses until midnight, we moved on when the moon rose.
During the morning we had passed along an extensive dried-up salt swamp
behind the coast ridge, which was soft for the horses in some places, but
free from that high brush which fatigued them so much, and which now
appeared to come close in to the sea, forming upon the high sandy ridges
a dense scrub. The level bank of the higher ground, or continuation of
the cliffs of the Bight, which had heretofore been distinctly visible at
a distance of ten or twelve miles inland, could no longer be seen: it had
either merged in the scrubby and sandy elevations around us, or was hid
by them from our view.
March 27. - During the night we travelled slowly over densely scrubby and
sandy ridges, occasionally crossing large sheets of oolitic limestone, in
which were deep holes that would most likely retain water after rains,
but which were now quite dry. As the daylight dawned the dreadful nature
of the scrub drove us to the sea beach; fortunately it was low water, and
we obtained a firm hard sand to travel over, though occasionally
obstructed by enormous masses of sea-weed, thrown into heaps of very many
feet in thickness and several hundreds of yards in length, looking
exactly like hay cut and pressed ready for packing.
To-day we overtook the natives, whose tracks we had seen so frequently on
our route. There was a large party of them, all busily engaged in eating
the red berries which grew behind the coast ridge in such vast
quantities; they did not appear so much afraid of us as of our horses, at
which they were dreadfully alarmed, so that all our efforts to
communicate with them were fruitless; they would not come near us, nor
would they give us the opportunity of getting near them, but ran away
whenever I advanced towards them, though alone and unarmed. During the
route I frequently ascended high scrubby ridges to reconnoitre the
country inland, but never could obtain a view of any extent, the whole
region around appeared one mass of dense impenetrable scrub running down
to the very borders of the ocean.
After travelling twenty miles I found that our horses needed rest, and
halted for an hour or two during the heat of the day, though without
grass, save the coarse wiry vegetation that binds the loose sands
together, and without even bushes to afford them shade from the heat, for
had we gone into the scrub for shelter we should have lost even the
wretched kind of grass we had.
At half past two we again moved onwards, keeping along the beach, but
frequently forced by the masses of sea-weed to travel above high water
mark in the heavy loose sand. After advancing ten miles the tide became
too high for us to continue on the shore, and the scrub prevented our
travelling to the back, we were compelled therefore to halt for the night
with hardly a blade of grass for our horses. I considered we were now one
hundred and two miles from the last water, and expected we had about
fifty more to go to the next; the poor animals were almost exhausted, but
as the dew was heavy they were disposed to eat had there been grass of
any kind for them. The overseer and I as usual watched them alternately,
each taking the duty for four hours and sleeping the other four; to me
this was the first sleep I had had for the last three nights.
Whilst in camp, during the heat of the day, the native boys shewed me the
way in which natives procure water for themselves, when wandering among
the scrubs, and by means of which they are enabled to remain out almost
any length of time, in a country quite destitute of surface water. I had
often heard of the natives procuring water from the roots of trees, and
had frequently seen indications of their having so obtained it, but I had
never before seen the process actually gone through. Selecting a large
healthy looking tree out of the gum-scrub, and growing in a hollow, or
flat between two ridges, the native digs round at a few feet from the
trunk, to find the lateral roots; to one unaccustomed to the work, it is
a difficult and laborious thing frequently to find these roots, but to
the practised eye of the native, some slight inequality of the surface,
or some other mark, points out to him their exact position at once, and
he rarely digs in the wrong place.
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