Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central Australia And Overland From Adelaide To King George's Sound In The Years 1840-1: Sent By The Colonists Of South Australia By Eyre, Edward John
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At Ten Miles We Crossed A
Well Beaten Native Pathway, Plainly Discernible Even Then, And This We
Followed Down Towards
The cliffs, fully hoping it would lead to water.
Our hopes however had been excited but to render our disappointment
The
greater, for upon tracing it onwards we found it terminate abruptly at a
large circular hole of limestone rock, which would retain a considerable
quantity of water after rains, but was now without a single drop.
Gloomily turning away we again pushed on for eight miles further, and at
three in the morning of the 10th were compelled to halt from downright
exhaustion and fatigue. The horses and sheep were knocked up. The poor
boy was so tired and sleepy that he could scarcely sit upon his horse,
and I found myself actually dosing as I walked: mechanically my legs kept
moving forwards, but my eyes were every now and then closed in
forgetfulness of all around me, until I was suddenly thrown down by
getting entangled amongst the scrub, or aroused by a severe blow across
the face from the recoil of a bough after the passage of the boy's horse.
I now judged we had come about ninety-three miles from Yeerkumban-kauwe,
and hoped that we could not be very far from water. Having tied up the
horses for an hour or two, and without making a fire, or even unrolling
our cloaks to cover us, we stretched ourselves on the ground, and were in
a few moments fast asleep.
March 10. - At five we were again on our route, every moment expecting to
see a break in the line of cliffs along which we had now travelled so
far. Alas! they still continued stretching as far as the eye could see to
the westward, and as fast as we arrived at one point which had bounded
our vision (and beyond which we hoped a change might occur), it was but
to be met with the view of another beyond. Distressing and fatal as the
continuance of these cliffs might prove to us, there was a grandeur and
sublimity in their appearance that was most imposing, and which struck me
with admiration. Stretching out before us in lofty unbroken outline, they
presented the singular and romantic appearance of massy battlements of
masonry, supported by huge buttresses, and glittering in the morning sun
which had now risen upon them, and made the scene beautiful even amidst
the dangers and anxieties of our situation. It was indeed a rich and
gorgeous view for a painter, and I never felt so much regret at my
inability to sketch as I did at this moment.
Still we kept moving onwards and still the cliffs continued. Hour after
hour passed away, mile after mile was traversed, and yet no change was
observable. My anxiety for the party who were to follow behind with the
pack-horses became very great; the state of doubt and uncertainty I was
in was almost insupportable, and I began to fear that neither sheep nor
horses would ever reach the water, even should we suceeed in doing so
ourselves, which now appeared to be very doubtful. At noon I considered
we had come one hundred and ten miles from the last water, and still the
country remained the same. The cliffs indeed appeared to be gradually
declining a little in elevation to the westward, but there was nothing to
indicate their speedy termination. Our sheep still travelled, but they
were getting so tired, and their pace was so slow, that I thought it
would be better to leave them behind, and by moving more rapidly with the
horses endeavour at least to save their lives. Foreseeing that such a
contingency as this might occur, I had given the overseer strict orders
to keep the tracks of my horses, that if I should be compelled to abandon
the sheep he might find them and bring them on with his party.
Having decided upon this plan we set to work and made a strong high yard
of such shrubs as we could find, and in this we shut up the sheep. I then
wrote a note for the overseer, directing him to bury the loads of the
horses, and hastening on with the animals alone endeavour to save their
lives. To attract attention I raised a long stick above the sheep-yard,
and tied to it a red handkerchief, which could be seen a long way off. At
one we again proceeded, and were able to advance more rapidly than we
could whilst the sheep were with us. In a few miles we came to a
well-beaten native road, and again our hopes were raised of speedily
terminating the anxiety and suspense we were in. Following the road for
ten miles it conducted us to where the cliffs receded a little from the
sea, leaving a small barren valley between them and the ocean, of low,
sandy ground; the road ceased here at a deep rocky gorge of the cliffs,
where there was a breach leading down to the valley. There were several
deep holes among the rocks where water would be procurable after rains,
but they were now all dry. The state of mind in which we passed on may be
better imagined than described. We had now been four days without a drop
of water for our horses, and we had no longer any for ourselves, whilst
there appeared as little probability of our shortly procuring it as there
had been two days ago. A break, it is true, had occurred in the line of
the cliffs, but this appeared of a very temporary character, for we could
see beyond them the valley again abutting upon the ocean.
At dark we were fifteen miles from where we left the sheep, and were
again upon a native pathway, which we twice tried to follow down the
steep and rugged slopes of the table land into the valley below.
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