Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central Australia And Overland From Adelaide To King George's Sound In The Years 1840-1: Sent By The Colonists Of South Australia By Eyre, Edward John
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Knowing From The Accounts Of The Natives That Upon Leaving Yeerkumban
Kauwe, I Should Have A Task Before Me Of
No ordinary difficulty to get
either the sheep or the horses to the next water, I determined to proceed
myself
In advance, with the sheep, that by travelling slowly, at the same
time that we kept steadily advancing, every chance might be given to them
of accomplishing the journey in safety. I was anxious too to precede my
party, in order that by finding out where the water was, I might be on
the look out for them, to guide them to it, and that thus when in their
greatest difficulty, no time should be lost in searching for water.
Having given the overseer orders to keep the tracks of my horses, when he
had travelled about seventy miles along the coast, I set off on the 7th
March, with the youngest of the natives to assist me in driving the
sheep, leaving the two elder ones with the overseer, to aid in managing
the pack-horses. As before we took two horses with us, one to carry our
provisions and water, and the other to ride upon in turn, the boy
however, being young, and incapable of much fatigue, the greater portion
of the walking naturally fell to my share. The day was cool and
favourable, and we accomplished a stage of twenty-four miles; the
afternoon became dark and lowering, and I fully expected rain, but
towards sunset two or three drops fell, and the clouds cleared away. Our
horses fed tolerably upon the little withered grass that we found, but
the sheep were too tired to eat, and lay down; we put them therefore into
a yard we had made for them for the night.
March 8. - Having turned the sheep out of the yard three hours before
daylight, I was in hopes they would have fed a little before we moved on,
but they would not touch such food as we had for them, and at six I was
obliged to proceed onwards; the morning was dark and looked like rain,
but as was the case yesterday, a drop or two only fell. We made a stage
to-day of twenty-six miles, through a level country, generally open, but
near the sea covered with a very low dwarf tea-tree, small prickly
bushes, and salsolae, and having the surface almost every where sprinkled
over with fresh-water shells; further from the coast the plains extending
to the north were very extensive, level, and divided by belts of scrub or
shrubs. There was no perceptible inclination of the country in any
direction, the level land ran to the very borders of the sea, where it
abruptly terminated, forming the steep and precipitous cliffs, observed
by Captain Flinders, and which it was quite impossible to descend
anywhere. The general elevation of this table land, was from three to
four hundred feet.
The day turned out fine and clear, and the effect produced by refraction
in these vast plains was singular and deceptive: more than once we turned
considerably out of our way to examine some large timber, as we thought
it to be, to the north of us, but which, upon our approach, proved to be
low scrubby bushes. At another time we imagined we saw two natives in the
distance, and went towards them as carefully and cautiously as we could;
instead, however, of our having seen the heads of natives, as we
supposed, above the bushes, it turned out to be only crows. Yet the
native boy, whose quickness and accuracy of vision had often before
surprised me, was equally deceived with myself. Upon halting in the
evening our sheep again were very tired, and refused to eat. The horses
too were now beginning to feel the want of water, and fed but little. I
therefore sat up and watched them until half past eight, after which I
tied them up to some bushes. At one o'clock I again got up and let them
loose, hoping they might feed a little better in the cool of the night.
The scud was rapidly passing the moon, and I watched for hours the clouds
gathering to the south and passing to the north, but no rain fell.
March 9. - Moving on early we passed through a similar country to that we
had before traversed; but there was more of the tea-tree scrub, which
made our travelling more difficult and fatiguing. This kind of scrub,
which is different from any I had seen before, is a low bush running
along the ground, with very thick and crooked roots and branches, and
forming a close matted and harassing obstacle to the traveller. The sheep
and horses got very tired, from having to lift their legs so high to
clear it every step they took. To the westward we found the country
rising as we advanced, and the cliffs becoming higher; they now answered
fully, where we could obtain a view of any projecting parts, to the
description given by Flinders - "the upper part brown and the lower part
white;" but as yet we could not find any place where we could descend to
examine them. The lower, or white part, appeared soft and crumbling, and
its decay had left the upper, or harder rock, fearfully overhanging the
ocean. Upon the summits we again found flints in the greatest abundance
lying loosely scattered over the surface.
The day was cloudy and gathering for rain, but none fell. After
travelling twenty-five miles we halted for an hour or two to rest the
sheep and horses, feeding was out of the question, for they were too much
in want of water to attempt to cat the dry and withered grass around us.
We now lay down to rest ourselves, and the boy soon fell asleep; I was
however feverish and restless, and could not close my eyes. In an hour
and a half I arose, got up the horses and saddled them, and then, awaking
my companion, we again pushed on by moonlight.
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