Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central Australia And Overland From Adelaide To King George's Sound In The Years 1840-1: Sent By The Colonists Of South Australia By Eyre, Edward John
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There remained now only the overseer; a man who had been in my service
for many years, and whose
Energy, activity, and many useful qualities,
had made him an invaluable servant to me at all times; whilst his
courage, prudence, good conduct, and fidelity, made me very desirous to
have him with me in this last effort to cross to the westward. Having
sent for him, I explained to him most fully the circumstances in which I
was placed, the utter impossibility of taking on the whole party through
so inhospitable a region as that before us, my own firm determination
never to return unsuccessful, but either to accomplish the object I had
in view, or perish in the attempt. I pointed out to him that there were
still eight hundred and fifty miles of an unknown country yet to be
traversed and explored; that, in all probability, this would consist
principally, if not wholly, of an all but impracticable desert. I
reminded him of the fatigues, difficulties, and losses we had already
experienced in attempting to reconnoitre the country only as far as the
head of the Great Bight; and stated to him my own conviction, that from
the knowledge and experience we had already acquired of the nature of the
country; the journey before us must of necessity be a long and harassing
one - one of unceasing toil, privation, and anxiety, whilst, from the
smallness of our party, the probable want of water, and other causes, it
would be one, also, of more than ordinary risk and danger. I then left
him to determine whether he would return to Adelaide, in the cutter, or
remain and accompany me. His reply was, that although he had become tired
of remaining so long away in the wilds, and should be glad when the
expedition had terminated, yet he would willingly remain with me to the
last; and would accompany me to the westward at every hazard.
Our future movements being now arranged, and the division of the party
decided upon, it remained only for me to put my plans into execution. The
prospect of the approaching separation, had cast a gloom over the whole
party, and now that all was finally determined, I felt that the sooner it
was over the better. I lost no time, therefore, in getting up all the
bran and oats from the cutter, and in putting on board of her our drays,
and such stores as we did not require, directing the master to hold
himself in readiness to return to Adelaide immediately.
By the 31st January, every thing was ready; my farewell letters were
written to the kind friends in Adelaide, to whom I owed so much; and my
final report to the Chairman of the Committee, for promoting the
expedition - that expedition being now brought to a close, and its members
disbanded.
In the evening the man and Mr. Scott went on board the cutter, taking
with them our three kangaroo dogs, which the arid nature of the country
rendered it impossible for me to keep. I regretted exceedingly being
compelled to part with the dogs, but it would have been certain
destruction to them to have attempted to take them with me.
The following is a copy of my final report to the Chairman of the
Northern Expedition Committee: -
"Fowler's Bay, 30th Jan., 1841.
"Sir, - By the return of the HERO from Fowler's Bay, I have the honour to
acquaint you, for the information of his Excellency the Governor, and the
colonists interested, with the unsuccessful termination of the expedition
placed under my command, for the purpose of exploring the northern
interior. Since my last report to his Excellency the Governor, containing
an account of two most disastrous attempts to head the Great Australian
Bight, I have, accompanied by one of my native boys, made a third and
more successful one. On this occasion, I with some difficulty advanced
about fifty miles beyond the head of the Great Bight, along the line of
high cliffs described by Flinders, and which have hitherto been supposed
to be composed principally of chalk. I found the country between the head
of Fowler's Bay and the head of the Great Bight to consist of a
succession of sandy ridges, all of which were more or less covered by a
low scrub, and without either grass or water for the last sixty miles.
This tract is of so uneven and heavy a nature that it would be quite
impossible for me to take a loaded dray across it at this very
unfavourable season of the year, and with horses so spiritless and jaded
as ours have become, from the incessant and laborious work they have gone
through during the last seven months. Upon rounding the head of the
Bight, I met with a few friendly natives, who shewed me where both grass
and water was to be procured, at the same time assuring me that there was
no more along the coast for ten of their days' journeys, (probably 100
miles) or where the first break takes place in the long and continuous
line of cliffs which extend so far to the westward of the head of the
Great Bight. Upon reaching these cliffs I felt much disappointed, as I
had long looked forward to some considerable and important change in the
character of the country. There was, however, nothing very remarkable in
their appearance, nor did the features of the country around undergo any
material change. The cliffs themselves struck me as merely exhibiting the
precipitous banks of an almost level country of moderate elevation (three
or four hundred feet) which the violent lash of the whole of the Southern
Ocean was always acting upon and undermining. Their rock formation
consisted of various strata, the upper crust or surface being an oolitic
limestone; below this is an indented concrete mixture of sand, soil,
small pebbles, and shells; beneath this appear immense masses of a coarse
greyish limestone, of which by far the greater portion of the cliffs are
composed; and immediately below these again is a narrow stripe of a
whitish, or rather a cream-coloured substance, lying in horizontal
strata, but which the impracticable nature of the cliffs did not permit
me to examine.
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