Were in the party, and one of them, John Houston, had been with
me in my late disastrous expedition, during which his obedience and good
conduct had been beyond all praise. We had, however, now been absent for
six months, had traversed a great extent of country, and undergone many
hardships; the country we had met with had unfortunately always been of
the most barren and disheartening character, and that which was yet
before us appeared to be if possible still worse, so that I could not
wonder that my men should appear gratified in the prospect of a
termination to their labours. With so little to cheer and encourage, they
might well perhaps doubt of our final success.
December 18. - Having once decided upon my plans, I lost no time in
putting them in execution. A dray, three sets of horses' harness, and
some other things were sent on board the WATERWITCH, together with half a
sheep and sixty pounds of biscuit for the crew, who were now running
short of provisions. Several casks were brought on shore for us to bury
stores in, and the boat I had purchased at Port Lincoln was left, at Mr.
Scott's request, for him to fish in during the absence of the cutter.
After I had settled with the two men for their services, both of whom had
large sums to receive, they took leave of us, and went on board.
My own time had been fully occupied for the last two days, in writing
letters and preparing despatches; by great exertions I got all ready this
evening, and upon Mr. Germain's coming up at night, I delivered them to
him, and directed him to sail as soon as possible. The following copy of
my despatch to his Excellency the Governor, will convey a brief summary
of the result of the expedition; from the time of our leaving Port
Lincoln up to the sailing of the WATERWITCH from Fowler's Bay, and of the
future plans I intended to adopt, to carry out the object of the
undertaking.
"POINT FOWLER, 17TH DECEMBER, 1840.
"SIR, - By the return of the WATERWITCH, I have the honour to furnish you,
for the information of His Excellency the Governor, with a brief account
of our proceedings up to the present date.
"Upon the return of Mr. Scott from Adelaide to Port Lincoln, I left the
latter place on the 24th October, following my former line of route along
the coast to Streaky Bay, and rejoining my party there on the 3rd
November.
"The WATERWITCH had already arrived with the stores sent for the use of
the expedition, and I have since detained her to co-operate with my
party, in accordance with the kind permission of his Excellency the
Governor.
"From previous experience, I was aware, that after leaving Streaky Bay,
we should have obstacles of no ordinary kind to contend with; and as I
advanced, I found the difficulties of the undertaking even greater than I
had anticipated; the heavy sandy nature of the country, its arid
character, the scarcity of grass, and the very dense brushes through
which we had frequently to clear a road with our axes, formed impediments
of no trifling description, and such as, when combined with the very
unfavourable season of the year, we could hardly have overcome without
the assistance of the WATERWITCH. By putting on board the cutter the
greater part of our dead weight, we relieved our jaded horses from loads
they could no longer draw; and by obtaining from her occasional supplies
of water at such points of the coast as we could procure none on shore,
we were enabled to reach Fowler's Bay on the 22nd November.
"From this point I could no longer avail myself of the valuable services
of the cutter, the wild unprotected character of the coast extending
around the Great Australian Bight, rendering it too dangerous for a
vessel to attempt to approach so fearful a shore, and where there is no
harbour or shelter of any kind to make for in case of need.
"Under these circumstances, I left my party in camp behind Point Fowler,
whilst I proceeded myself, accompanied by a native boy, to examine the
country a-head, and I now only detained the WATERWITCH, in the hopes that
by penetrating on horseback beyond the head of the Great Bight, I might
be able to give his Excellency some idea of our future prospects.
"For the last twenty-four days I have been engaged in attempting to round
the head of the Bight; but so difficult is the country, that I have not
as yet been able to accomplish it. In my first essay I was driven back by
the want of water and obliged to abandon one of my horses. This animal I
subsequently recovered.
"In my second attempt, I went, accompanied by one of my native boys, and
a man driving a dray loaded solely with water and our provisions; but
such was the dreadful nature of the country, that after penetrating to
within twelve miles of the head of the Bight, I was again obliged to
abandon three of our horses, a dray, and our provisions. The poor horses
were so exhausted by previous fatigue and privation, that they could not
return, and I was most reluctantly obliged to leave them to obtain relief
for ourselves, and the two remaining horses we had with us. After
reaching the nearest water, we made every effort to save the unfortunate
animals we had left behind; and for seven days, myself, the man, and a
boy, were incessantly and laboriously engaged almost day and night in
carrying water backwards and forwards to them - feeding them with bread,
gruel, etc.
