Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central Australia And Overland From Adelaide To King George's Sound In The Years 1840-1: Sent By The Colonists Of South Australia By Eyre, Edward John
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- Breakfasted before daylight, and moved on with the earliest
dawn to encounter a scrub which I knew to be of heavier timber, and
growing more closely together than any we had yet attempted.
It consisted
of Eucalyptus dumosa and the salt-water tea-tree, (the latter of a very
large growth and very dense,) in a heavy sandy soil.
By keeping the axes constantly at work in advance of the drays, we
succeeded in slowly forcing a passage through this dreadful country,
emerging in about seventeen miles at an open plain behind Point Brown,
and in the midst of which was a well of water. The entrance to this well
was by a circular opening, through a solid sheet of limestone, about
fifteen inches in diameter, but enlarging a little about a foot below the
surface. The water was at a depth of ten feet, and so choked up with sand
and dirt that we were obliged to clear the hole out effectually before we
could get any for the horses. This was both a difficult and an unpleasant
occupation, as the man engaged in it had to lower himself through the
very narrow aperture at the top and work in a very cramped position
amongst the dirt and wet below, with the mud dripping upon him; it was
drawn up in a bag, for a bucket could not be used in so contracted a
space. As a spade could not be employed a large shell left by the natives
was used for scooping up the dirt, which made the operation both slow and
tiresome. Our horses were dreadfully fagged and very thirsty after the
severe toil they had endured in dragging the drays through so heavy a
scrub, but with all our exertions we could only obtain from the spring
about two buckets of water apiece for them. As this was not nearly enough
to satisfy them, I was obliged to have them watched for the night to
prevent their straying. The men had been kept incessantly at work from
five in the morning until nearly ten at night, and the additional duty of
watching the horses bore very hard upon them; but they knew it to be
necessary, and did it cheerfully.
We had passed during our route through one or two of the small grassy
openings so constantly met with even in the densest scrubs, and, as
usual, I noticed upon these plains the remains of former scrub, where the
trees were apparently of a larger growth than those now existing around.
The soil too, from a loose sand, had become firmer and more united, and
wherever the scrub had disappeared its place had been supplied by grass.
This strongly confirmed my opinion, long ago formed, that those vast
level wastes in Australia, now covered with low scrub, (and formerly, I
imagine, the bed of the ocean,) are gradually undergoing a process of
amelioration which may one day fit them for the purposes of pasture or
agriculture. The smoke of many native fires was seen during the day
behind and around us, but we did not fall in with any of the natives.
November 8. - Having given each of the horses a bucket of water from the
well, we moved on again through the same dense scrub we had encountered
yesterday, but, if possible, more harassing, from the increased steepness
of the sandy ridges and the quantity of dead timber lying on the surface,
and causing a great impediment to our progress. We forced our way through
this worse than desert region, for about fourteen miles, and arrived
early in the afternoon, with our horses quite exhausted, upon the shores
of Smoky Bay, at a point where the natives had dug a hole in the sand
hills near the beach to procure water, and from which the south end of
the island of St. Peter bore W. 15 degrees S.
The WATERWITCH was already here, and supplied us with a cask of water,
until the men had dined and rested a little, before entering upon the
task of digging for water, which proved to be a most arduous undertaking,
and occupied us all the afternoon. We had to sink through a loose sand
for fifteen feet, which from its nature, added to the effect of a strong
wind that was blowing at the time, drifted in almost as fast as it was
thrown out. We were consequently obliged to make a very large opening
before we could get at the water at all; it was then very abundant, but
dreadfully salt, being little better than the sea water itself; the
horses and sheep however drank it greedily, as we had been able to give
them but little of that received from the vessel.
November 9. - Upon mustering the horses this morning I found they were
looking so exhausted and jaded after the hard toil they had gone through
in the last three days, that I could not venture to put them to work
again to-day. I was consequently obliged to remain in camp, to rest both
them and the men, all of whom were much fatigued. The well in the sand
was even salter to-day than we had found it yesterday, and was quite
unserviceable; the men had sunk the hole rather too deep, that they might
get the water in greater abundance; but when the tide rose it flowed in
under the sand and spoiled the whole. As the water, even at the best, had
been so salt that we could not use it ourselves, and as it was far from
being wholesome for the horses, I did not think it worth while to give
the men the fatigue of digging another hole. I therefore put both horses
and men upon a limited allowance, and got a cask containing sixty gallons
from the cutter for our day's supply. I also took the opportunity of
again lightening our loads by sending on board some more of the baggage
and the light cart.
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