- Passing up a barren valley between low hills, we had at
first a good road, but afterwards it became very stony. We encamped
early, after a short stage of fifteen miles, having gradually left most
of the hills to the north of us. One that we were encamped under I
ascended, and had a very extensive view, and took many angles. A large
lake (named Lake Gilles) [Note 22: After the first Colonial Treasurer of
the province.] bore nearly due south, and was the same that had been
seen from Baxter's range; the latter was now distinctly visible
at a bearing of E. 20 degrees S. The latitude of our camp was 32 degrees
35 minutes 58 seconds S. There was barely enough rain water found to
supply our horses, but the feed was tolerably good.
September 27. - We had a very bad stony road to-day, consisting
principally of quartz and iron-stone, of which the ranges had latterly
been entirely composed. Our stage was sixteen miles, passing round the
south end of Baxter's range, and encamping under it, on the eastern
front, upon a gorge, in which was plenty of water and good grass. We had
thus, by taking advantage of the rains that had fallen, been enabled to
force a passage from Streaky Bay to Spencer's Gulf; but we had done so
with much difficulty, and had we been but a few days later, we should
have failed altogether, for though travelling for a great part of the
distance under very high rocky ranges, we never found a drop of permanent
fresh-water nor a single spring near them. There are no watercourses, and
no timber; all is barren rocky and naked in the extreme. The waters that
collected after rains, lodged in the basins of small lakes; but such was
the nature of the soil that these were invariably salt.
It was through this dreary region I had left my overseer to take his
division of the party when we separated at Baxter's range; but I confided
the task to him with confidence. Rain had at that time fallen very
abundantly; he had already been over the road with me before, and knew
all the places where water or grass was likely to be found; and our
former dray tracks of 1839, which were still distinctly visible, would be
a sufficient guide to prevent his getting off the line of route. The
skill, judgment, and success with which the overseer conducted the task
assigned to him, fully justified the confidence I reposed in him; and
upon my rejoining the party at Streaky Bay, after an absence of seven
weeks, I was much gratified to find that neither the men, animals, or
equipment, were in the least degree the worse for their passage through
the desert.
Chapter XI.
EMBARK STORES - PARTY LEAVE STREAKY BAY - DENSE SCRUE - POINT
BROWN - SINGULAR WELL - PROCESS OF CHANGE IN APPEARANCE OF COUNTRY - DIG FOR
WATER - FRIENDLY NATIVES - EXTRAORDINARY RITE - NATIVE GUIDES - LEIPOA'S
NEST - DENIAL BAY - BEELIMAH GAIPPE - KANGAROO KILLED - MORE
NATIVES - BERINYANA GAIPPE - SALT LAKES - WADEMAR GAIPPE - SANDY AND SCRUBBY
COUNTRY - MOBEELA GAIPPE - DIFFICULTY OF GETTING WATER - MORE
NATIVES - GENUINE HOSPITALITY - SINGULAR MARKS ON THE ABDOMEN - NATIVES
LEAVE THE PARTY - FOWLER'S BAY - EXCELLENT WHALING STATION.
November 4. - To-DAY the party were occupied in sorting and packing
stores, which I intended to send on board the WATERWITCH to Fowler's Bay,
that by lightening the loads upon the drays, we might the more easily
force a passage through the dense scrub which I knew we had to pass
before we reached that point. In the afternoon the men were engaged in
shearing the remainder of our sheep, washing their own clothes and
preparing everything for breaking up the camp, whilst I rode down to
Streaky Bay, and went on board the cutter to give orders relative to the
reception of our stores tomorrow.
The harbour of Streaky Bay is extensive, but generally open to the
westward. In its most southerly bight, however, is a secure well
sheltered bay, for vessels of moderate draught of water; being protected
by a long sandy shoal which must be rounded before a vessel can enter.
[Note 23: A plan of this harbour was made by Mr. Cannan, one of the
Government assistant surveyors of South Australia, when sent by the
Government in a cutter to meet my party with provisions in 1839.]
November 5. - To-day we were engaged in carting down the stores and a
supply of water to the cutter, which we got safely on board, when I gave
written instructions to the master to sail at once, and land a cask of
water, a little higher up the bay, for the use of the horses. In the
evening the drays were loaded and all got ready for our departure
to-morrow.
November 6. - Having had the horses watched last night we were enabled to
move away early, and about noon arrived at the place I had appointed Mr.
Germain to land the cask of water: it was all ready, and we watered the
horses, took luncheon and moved on again, directing Mr. Germain to
proceed to Smoky Bay, and land water for us again there. The country we
passed through to-day was low, level, and sandy, and covered with prickly
grass, with a few tea-tree swamps, but no fresh water. The shore of
Streaky Bay on its western side was bounded by high steep sandy hummocks,
behind which we travelled, and at night halted on the borders of a dense
scrub, nearly opposite the middle of the bay, after a stage of about
eighteen miles. Our vicinity to the sea enabled Mr. Scott, myself, and
the native boys to enjoy a swim, a luxury highly appreciated by a
traveller after a day's hard work, amidst heat and dust, and one which I
anticipated we should frequently obtain in our course to the westward.
