The view from this was extensive, but only
over a mass of low and desolate scrub, with the exception of one or two
elevations to the north and north-east. Towards the coast, amidst the
waste around, was a large sheet of salt water, with here and there a few
openings near it, studded with casuarinae, to this we bent our steps, and
at twelve miles from our last night's camp took up our position in lat.
33 degrees 14 minutes 36 seconds S. upon the lagoon seen by Flinders from
the masthead.
The traces of natives and their beaten pathways were here very numerous
(of the latter of which there could not be less than thirty) all leading
to a large deep hole, sunk about eight feet, principally through a soft
limestone rock. This was carefully blocked up with large stones and mud,
but upon clearing it out the water came bubbling up rapidly, and we got
an abundant supply. The entrance from seawards to the sheet of water, or
lagoon, is between two heads, (one of them being a high bluff) little
more than a mile apart. There appeared to be a reef off the entrance
outside, but our being without a boat prevented us from ascertaining how
far this inlet was adapted for a harbour. Inside, the water is shallow
towards the south, but deeper in the northern half of the inlet.
November 2. - Tracing round the shores, we passed several other holes dug
by the natives in the sand, to procure water; these, however, did not
appear of so permanent a character as the first, for many had fallen in,
and others contained but very little water. The huts of the natives were
numerous, and of a large and substantial description; but we saw none of
their owners.
After leaving the inlet we pushed on through the scrub to a high bluff of
granitic formation, distant about sixteen miles N. 35 degrees W., and
named by me Mount Hall. [Note 18: After G. Hall, Esq. the Governor's
Private Secretary.] The road being very heavy, it was late when we arrived
there, and both our horses and sheep were much fatigued. We got a
little water from holes in the sheets of granite, and had very good
grass in an opening under the hill.
From the summit of Mount Hall the view was extensive, and I obtained many
angles. The surrounding country was low, level, and barren, and densely
covered with scrub, among which, to the north-west were seen many
salt-water lakes. At intervals a few elevations were seen amidst this low
waste, apparently similar to the hill we were upon, among them were one
or two very distant at a little N. of E., and nearer, one at E. 16
degrees N.; the latter I named Mount Cooper. [Note 19: After Charles
Cooper, Esq. the Judge of the colony.] At a bearing of S. 35 degrees W.
another saltwater inlet was seen apparently communicating with the sea;
but this we could not satisfactorily ascertain from its great
distance. The latitude of Mount Hall, deduced from observations of a
Lyrae and a Aquilae, was 33 degrees 2 minutes 40 seconds S. Several
native fires were seen to the east and south-east in the scrub.
November 3. - After seeing the party ready tomove on, I left Mr. Scott to
conduct the dray, whilst I rode forward in advance to the depot near
Streaky Bay, where I arrived early in the afternoon, and was delighted to
find the party all well, and everything going on prosperously. They had
expected me some time before and were looking out very anxiously for my
arrival. The WATERWITCH had arrived on the 29th of October, but the
master did not communicate with my party before the 31st; so that until
the last three days they had been quite ignorant of our movements, and
uneasy at our so greatly exceeding the time originally fixed for
rejoining them. Having sent back a man, and two fresh and strong horses
to assist the dray, I reconnoitred once more our depot of 1839. Situated
in the middle of some extensive grassy openings among the scrub, is a
solid sheet of limestone of a very hard texture: in the centre of this
rock is a small oblong opening, a foot deep and only just large enough to
admit of a pint pot being dipped in it. This curious little hole
contained water from five to seven inches in depth, the level of which
was maintained as rapidly as a person could bale it out; this was our
sole supply for ourselves and horses, but it was a never-failing one.
[Note 20: The water had not a pleasant flavour, as it was of a chalybeate
nature; but in a country where water was scarce, it was invaluable. When I
was here in 1839, it had even then this disagreeable taste, but now it was
much worse, in consequence, probably, of the contaminating substance
being washed off more abundantly than formerly from the rocks enclosing
the reservoir by the rapid flow of water necessary to replace the large
consumption of my party.]
The spring is situated in latitude 32 degrees 49 minutes 0 seconds S. and
about three miles south-east from the most southerly bight of Streaky
Bay. About one mile and a half to the west is another small hole of
better flavoured water, but not so abundant in its supply.
I found all the horses in excellent condition, and one, a very fine mare
of my own, had foaled about six weeks before. Around the camp were
immense piles of oyster shells, pretty plainly indicating the feasting my
men had enjoyed during my absence, whilst their strong and healthy
appearance shewed how well such fare had agreed with them.
