Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central Australia And Overland From Adelaide To King George's Sound In The Years 1840-1: Sent By The Colonists Of South Australia By Eyre, Edward John
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To The Westward A Great
Extent Of Dense Scrub Was Visible, Amid Which Were One Or Two Elevations;
And A
Salt lake, at a bearing of S. 60 degrees E. I made the latitude of
this camp 34 degrees 7
Minutes 16 seconds S. and the variation of the
compass 4 degrees 10 minutes E.
October 28. - Travelling onwards for four miles, we passed a fine spring,
situated in a swamp to our left, and at two more we came to a sheet of
water, named Lake Hamilton, [Note 15: After my friend George Hamilton,
Esq.] a large and apparently deep lake, with but a few hundred yards
of a steep high bank, intervening between it and the sea; the
latter was rapidly encroaching upon this barrier, and would probably
in the course of a few years more force a way through, and lay
under water a considerable extent of low country in that vicinity. Around
the margin of the lake was abundance of good grass, but the bank between
it and the sea was high and very rocky.
After leaving the lake we entered upon a succession of low grassy hills
but most dreadfully stony, and at night encamped upon a swamp, after a
stage of about sixteen miles. Here we procured abundance of good water by
digging through the limestone crust, near the surface. The country around
was still of the same character as before, but amidst the never-ceasing
strata of limestone which everywhere protruded, were innumerable large
wombat holes - yet strange to say not one of these was tenanted. The whole
fraternity of these animals appeared to have been cut off altogether in
some unaccountable manner, or to have migrated simultaneously to some
other part. No emus or kangaroos were to be seen anywhere, and the whole
region around wore a singularly wild and deserted aspect.
October 29. - Our route was again over low stony hills, but with rather
better valleys between them; this kind of country appeared to extend from
five to twelve miles inland from the coast, and then commenced the low
level waste of barren scrubby land, which we so constantly saw to the
eastward of us.
I had intended to make a short stage to-day to a spring, situated in the
midst of a swamp, in latitude 33 degrees 46 minutes 35 seconds S., but
having kept rather too far away from the coast, I missed it, and had to
push on for twenty-three miles to a rich and very pretty valley, under a
grassy range, lightly wooded with casuarinae. The soil was somewhat
sandy, but clothed with vegetation; in holes in the rocks we procured
abundance of water from a little valley near our camp, and in a swamp
about a mile and a half north-east was a spring. Our stage was a long
one, and the day being excessively hot, our horses, sheep, and dogs were
nearly all knocked up. Of the latter two were unfortunately missing when
we arrived at our halting ground; one came up afterwards, but the other
could nowhere be found, though both had been seen not two miles away. The
missing dog [Note 16 at end of para.], was the best of the two which I had
purchased of Mr. White, and I felt sorry for a loss which it would be
impossible for me to replace. Many native fires were seen to-day, and
especially in the direction of a high bare-looking detached range to the
north-east, named by me from its shape, Mount Wedge; none of these people
were, however, seen, but a fire still burning was found where we encamped
for the night.
[Note 16: Upon returning to Adelaide in 1841, I learnt that the dog had
gone back all the way to Mr. White's station, and as Mr. White wished to
keep the animal, he returned the money he had received at his sale.]
On the 30th we remained stationary to rest the horses, and to try and
recover the lost dog, but after a long and fruitless search, we were
obliged to give up the attempt.
On the 31st, after crossing a ridge under which we were encamped, we
passed through a very pretty grassy and park-like country, and what was
very unusual, not stony on the surface. There were in places a great many
wombat holes, but these were now all occupied by their tenants, and the
whole aspect of the country was more encouraging and cheerful; the extent
of good country was, however, very limited. Towards the coast was a low
scrubby-looking region with salt lakes, and to the east it was bounded by
a dense brush, beyond which were extensive plains of a barren and scrubby
appearance. In the midst of these plains were large fields of a coarse
wiry-kind of grass, growing in enormous tufts, five or six feet high, and
indicating the places where swamps exist in wet seasons; these were now
quite dry, but we had always found the same coarse-tufted grass growing
around the margins of the salt lakes, and in those places also where we
had found water. This description of country seemed to extend to the base
of Wedge Hill, which I intended to have ascended, but the weather was too
cloudy to obtain a view from it. The character of the country to the
north and north-east was equally low and unpromising, with the exception
of two peaks seen at considerable distances apart.
Our stage to-day was sixteen miles to Lake Newland, [Note 17: Named after
my friend R. F. Newland, Esq.] a large salt-water lake, with numerous
fine and strong springs of excellent water, bubbling up almost
in the midst of the salt. In one place one of these springs was
surrounded by a narrow strip of soil, and the stream emanating from it
took its winding course through the skirts of the salt-water lake itself,
inclosed by a very narrow bank of earth, on either side; this slight
barrier being the only division between the salt and the fresh water.
From the abundance of fresh water at Lake Newland, and the many patches
of tolerably grassy country around, a very fair station might be formed,
either for sheep or cattle.
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