Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central Australia And Overland From Adelaide To King George's Sound In The Years 1840-1: Sent By The Colonists Of South Australia By Eyre, Edward John
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During The Homeward Journey From The Mundy, I Had Reflected Much On The
Position In Which I Was Placed, And Spent Many An Anxious Hour In
Deliberating As To The Future.
I had one of three alternatives to choose,
either to give up the expedition altogether; - to cross to the
Murray to
the east and follow up that river to the Darling; - or by crossing over to
Streaky Bay to the westward, to endeavour to find some opening leading
towards the interior in that direction. After weighing well the
advantages and disadvantages of each (and there were many objections to
them all,) I determined upon adopting the last, for reasons which will be
found in my Report sent to the Governor, and to the Chairman of the
Northern Expedition Committee from Port Lincoln. [Note 8: Vide Chapter
IX.] My mind having thus been made up, I knew, from former experience,
that I had no time to lose, now that the weather was showery and
favourable, and that if I delayed at all in putting my plans into
execution I might probably be unable to cross from Mount Arden to
Streaky Bay. The distance between these two points was upwards of
two hundred miles, through a barren and desert region, in which,
though among high ranges, I had on a former occasion been unable to
discover any permanent water, and through which we could only hope
to pass by taking advantage of the puddles left by the late rains;
I therefore decided upon halting at the depot to rest the horses
even for a day; and the party had no sooner reached their encampment,
than, while one portion of the men took the horses up the watercourse to
water, the others were employed in digging up the stores we had buried
here, and in repacking and rearranging all the loads ready to move on
again immediately. By the evening all the arrangements were completed and
the whole party retired to rest much fatigued.
Chapter VIII.
PROCEED TO THE WESTWARD - CHANNEL OF COMMUNICATION BETWEEN LAKE TORRENS
AND SPENCER'S GULF - BAXTER'S RANGE - DIVIDE THE PARTY - ROUTE TOWARDS PORT
LINCOLN - SCRUB - FRUITLESS SEARCH FOR WATER - SEND DRAY BACK FOR
WATER - PLUNDERED BY THE NATIVES - RETURN OF DRAY - DENSE SCRUB - REFUGE
ROCKS - DENSE SCRUB - SALT CREEK - MOUNT HILL - DENSE SCRUB - LARGE
WATERCOURSE - ARRIVE AT A STATION - RICH AND GRASSY VALLEYS - CHARACTER OF
PORT LINCOLN PENINSULA - UNABLE TO PROCURE SUPPLIES - ENGAGE A BOAT TO SEND
OVER TO ADELAIDE - BUY SHEEP.
September 13. - UPON leaving the depot this morning I was obliged to leave
behind a very large tarpaulin which we did not require, and which from
the extra weight we had last night put upon the drays, we could not
conveniently carry. Steering to the south-west we came at twelve miles to
the head of Spencer's Gulf, and crossed the channel connecting it with
Lake Torrens. At this place it is not very wide, but its bed like that of
the lake is soft and boggy, with salt water mixed with the mud. We had a
good deal of difficulty in getting over it, and one of the drays having
stuck fast, we had to unload it, carrying the things over on men's backs.
A few miles beyond this we halted for the night, where there was good
grass for the horses and plenty of water in the puddles around us. We
crossed principally during the day, a rather heavy sandy country, but
were now encamped in plains of a firmer and better character for the
drays.
September 14. - Travelling on through open plains with loose gravelly
stones, lying on their surface, we passed to the south of a small
table-topped hill, visible from Mount Arden, and very much resembling the
fragments of table land that I had met with to the north. This however
was somewhat larger than those, and though steep-sided as they were it
did not disclose the same white strata of chalk and gypsum, its formation
being more rocky and of rather a slaty character.
September 15. - Pushing on rapidly over extensive plains very similar to
those we had already crossed, we arrived, after a long stage, under
Baxter's range, and encamped upon a small channel coming from it, with
abundance of water and good grass. This range is high and rocky, rising
abruptly out of the plains, and distinctly visible from Mount Arden, from
which it is about fifty miles distant. Its formation is entirely
conglomerate of rather a coarse description. Among its rugged overhanging
steeps are many of the large red species of wallabie similar to those we
had seen to the north at the Scott. Two of these we shot. The latitude of
our camp at Baxter's range was 32 degrees 40 minutes S.
September 16. - Remained in camp to-day to rest the horses and prepare for
dividing the party, as from the great abundance of rain that had fallen,
I no longer apprehended a scarcity of water on the route to Streaky Bay,
and therefore decided upon sending my overseer across with the party,
whilst I myself took a dray down direct to Port Lincoln, on the west side
of Spencer's Gulf, to obtain additional supplies, with the intention of
joining them again at Streaky Bay.
Having spent some time in taking bearings from the summit of Baxter's
range, I examined all the channels and gorges coming from it, and in most
of these I found water. I am of opinion however that in a very dry
season, the water which I now found will be quite dried up, and
especially in the largest of the watercourses, or the one upon which we
were encamped. [Note 9: In October 1842, this was quite dry, but water was
still found in holes in the rocks in the southernmost gorge, above the
waterfall, at the base of which water was also procured by digging in
the gravel.]
A little further south, there is a rocky ravine winding through a gorge
and terminating in a waterfall, with a large pool of beautiful water at
the base, and with many large and deep holes of water in the rocks above.
In this ravine I imagine water might be procured at any period of the
year, and I am confirmed in this opinion by the circumstance of three
well beaten native roads, coming from different points of the compass,
and all converging at this place.
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