Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central Australia And Overland From Adelaide To King George's Sound In The Years 1840-1: Sent By The Colonists Of South Australia By Eyre, Edward John
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During Our Ride We Passed Several Dry Watercourses At Five, Ten,
Twenty-Five, Thirty, And Thirty-Five Miles From Our Last Encampment.
The
last we halted upon with good feed for the horses, and rainwater lodged
everywhere.
All these watercourses took their course to the north,
emptying and losing themselves in the plains. In the evening heavy
showers again fell, and the night set in very dark.
September 2. - After travelling seven miles we ascended Mount Distance,
and from it I could see that the hills now bore S. and S.E. and were
getting much lower, so that we were rapidly rounding their northern
extremity. To the north and north-east were seen only broken fragments of
table lands, similar to what I found near the lake to the north-west; the
lake itself, however, was nowhere visible, and I saw that I should have
another day's hard riding before I could satisfactorily determine its
direction. Upon descending I steered for a distant low haycock-like peak
in the midst of one of the table-topped fragments; from this rise I
expected the view would be decisive, and I named it Mount Hopeless. - From
Mount Distance it bore E. 25 degrees N.
Crossing many little stony ridges, and passing the channel of several
watercourses, I discovered a new and still more disheartening feature in
the country, the existence of brine springs. Hitherto we had found
brackish and occasionally salt water in some of the watercourses, but by
tracing them up among the hills, we had usually found the quality to
improve as we advanced, but now the springs were out in the open plains,
and the water poisoned at its very source.
Occasionally round the springs were a few coarse rushes, but the soil in
other respects was quite bare, destitute of vegetation, and thickly
coated over with salt, presenting the most miserable and melancholy
aspect imaginable. We were now in nearly the same latitude as that in
which Captain Sturt had discovered brine springs in the bed of the
Darling, and which had rendered even that river so perfectly salt that
his party could not make use of it.
September 2. - At thirty-five miles we reached the little elevation I had
been steering for, and ascended Mount Hopeless, and cheerless and
hopeless indeed was the prospect before us. As I had anticipated, the
view was both extensive and decisive. We were now past all the ranges;
and for three quarters of the compass, extending from south, round by
east and north, to west, the horizon was one unbroken level, except where
the fragments of table land, or the ridge of the lake, interrupted its
uniformity
The lake was now visible to the north and to the east; and I had at last
ascertained, beyond all doubt, that its basin, commencing near the head
of Spencer's Gulf, and following the course of Flinders range (bending
round its northern extreme to the southward), constituted those hills the
termination of the island of South Australia, for such I imagine it once
to have been. This closed all my dreams as to the expedition, and put an
end to an undertaking from which so much was anticipated. I had now a
view before me that would have damped the ardour of the most
enthusiastic, or dissipated the doubts of the most seeptical. To the
showers that fell on the evening of the 31st of August, we were solely
indebted for having been able to travel thus far; had there been much
more rain the country would have been impracticable for horses, - if less
we could not have procured water to have enabled us to make such a push
as we had done.
The lake where it was visible, appeared, as it had ever done, to be from
twenty-five to thirty miles across, and its distance from Mount Hopeless
was nearly the same. The hills to the S. and S. W. of us, seemed to
terminate on the eastern slopes, as abruptly as on the western; and from
the point where we stood, we could distinctly trace by the gum-trees, the
direction of watercourses emanating from among them, taking northerly,
north-easterly, easterly and south-easterly courses, according to the
point of the range they came from. This had been the case during the
whole of our route under Flinder's range. We had at first found the
watercourses going to the south of west, then west, north-west, north,
and now north-east, east and south-east. I had, at the same time,
observed all around this mountain mass, the appearance of the bed of a
large lake, following the general course of the ranges on every side, and
receiving, apparently, the whole drainage from them.
On its western, and north-western shores, I had ascertained by actual
examination, that its basin was a very low level, clearly defined, and
effectually inclosed by an elevated continuous sandy ridge, like the
outer boundary of a sea-shore, its area being of immense extent, and its
bed of so soft and yielding a nature, as to make it quite impossible to
cross it. All these points I had decided positively, and finally, as far
as regards that part of Lake Torrens, from near the head of Spencer's
Gulf, to the most north-westerly part of it, which I visited on the 14th
of August, embracing a course of fully 200 miles in its outline. I had
done this, too, under circumstances of great difficulty, toil, and
anxiety, and not without the constant risk of losing my horses, from the
fatigues and privations of the forced labours I was obliged to impose
upon them.
Having ascertained these particulars, and at so much hazard, relative to
Lake Torrens, for so great a part of its course, what conclusion could I
arrive at with regard to the character of its other half to the
north-east, and east of Flinders ranges, as seen from Mount Hopeless, and
Mount Serle points, nearly ninety miles apart!
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