Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central Australia And Overland From Adelaide To King George's Sound In The Years 1840-1: Sent By The Colonists Of South Australia By Eyre, Edward John
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- Setting off early this morning, accompanied by a native boy,
I steered W.N.W. For the first four
Miles, I took my overseer along with
me, to shew him the direction I intended to take, so that if I did not
return in two days, he might send a pack-horse with water to meet me
along the tracks.
After he had left I pushed steadily on for thirty-five miles, principally
over heavy sandy ridges, which were very fatiguing to the horses, and at
dark reached the outer dunes of the lake, where I was obliged to tie the
horses up to some small bushes, as there was neither water nor grass for
them. The bed of the lake where I struck it, seemed dry for some distance
from the shore, but towards the middle there appeared to be a large body
of water. From our camp Mount Deception bore E. 26 degrees S. and
Termination Hill, E. 35 degrees N.
August 23. - Starting early, I traced the course of the lake
north-westerly for ten miles, and was then able to satisfy myself that it
was a part of the same vast basin I had seen so much further to the
north, it inclined here considerably to the westward, and this
circumstance added to the high sandy ridges intervening between it and
Flinders range fully explained the cause of our not having observed its
course to the north of west from the hills near our depot. Crossing the
sandy ridge bounding the basin of the lake, I was surprised to see its
bed apparently much contracted, and the opposite shore distinctly
visible, high, rocky and bluff to the edge of the water, seemingly only
seven or eight miles distant, and with several small islands or rocks
scattered over its surface. This was however only deceptive, and caused
by the very refractive state of the atmosphere at the time, for upon
dismounting and leading the horses into the bed of the lake, the opposite
shore appeared to recede, and the rocks or islands turned out to be only
very small lumps of dirt or clay lying in the bed of the lake, and
increased in magnitude by refraction.
I penetrated into the basin of the lake for about six miles, and found it
so far without surface water. On entering at first, the horses sunk a
little in a stiff mud, after breaking through a white crust of salt,
which everywhere coated the surface and was about one eighth of an inch
in thickness, as we advanced the mud became much softer and greatly mixed
with salt water below the surface, until at last we found it impossible
to advance a step further, as the horses had already sunk up to their
bellies in the bog, and I was afraid we should never be able to extricate
them, and get them safely back to the shore. Could we have gone on for
some distance, I have no doubt that we should have found the bed of the
lake occupied by water, as there was every appearance of a large body of
it at a few miles to the west. As we advanced a great alteration had
taken place, in the aspect of the western shores. The bluff rocky banks
were no longer visible, but a low level country appeared to the view at
seemingly about fifteen or twenty miles distance. From the extraordinary
and deceptive appearances, caused by mirage and refraction, however, it
was impossible to tell what to make of sensible objects, or what to
believe on the evidence of vision, for upon turning back to retrace our
steps to the eastward, a vast sheet of water appeared to intervene
between us and the shore, whilst the Mount Deception ranges, which I knew
to be at least thirty-five miles distant, seemed to rise out of the bed
of the lake itself, the mock waters of which were laving their base, and
reflecting the inverted outline of their rugged summits. The whole scene
partook more of enchantment than reality, and as the eye wandered over
the smooth and unbroken crust of pure white salt which glazed the basin
of the lake, and which was lit up by the dazzling rays of a noonday sun,
the effect was glittering, and brilliant beyond conception.
[Very similar appearances seem to have been observed by Monsieur Peron,
on the S. W. coast near Geographe Bay. "A cette epoque nous eprouvions les
effets les plus singuliers du mirage; tantot les terres les plus
uniformes et les plus basses nous paroissoient portees au dessus des
eaux, et profondement dechirrees dans toutes leurs parties; tantot leurs
cretes superieures sembloient renversees, et reposer ainsi sur les
vagues; a chaque instant on croyoit voir au large de longues chaines de
recifs, et de brisans qui sembloient se reculer a mesure qu'on s'en
approchoit davantage." - VOYAGE DE DECOUVERTES AUX TERRES AUSTRALES REDIGE
PAR PERON.]
Upon regaining the eastern shore, I found that all I had been able to
effect was to determine that the lake still continued its course to the
N.W. that it was still guided as before, by a ridge like a sea shore,
that its area was undiminished, that its bed was dry on the surface for
at least six miles from the outer margin, and that from the increasing
softness of the mud, occasioned by its admixture with water, as I
proceeded there was every probability that still further west, water
would be found upon the surface. Beyond these few facts, all was
uncertainty and conjecture in this region of magic. Turning away from the
lake, I retraced my steps towards the depot, and halted at dark after a
stage of nearly forty miles. Here was neither grass nor water, and again
I was obliged to tie up the unfortunate horses, jaded, hungry and
thirsty.
During the night, I released one of the poor animals for an hour or two,
thinking he would not stray from his companion, and might, perhaps, crop
a few of the little shrubs growing on the sand ridges, but on searching
for him in the morning he was gone, and I had to walk twelve miles over
the heavy sand tracking him, the boy following along our outward track
with the other horse, for fear of missing the man who was to meet us with
water.
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