Journals Of Expeditions Of Discovery Into Central Australia And Overland From Adelaide To King George's Sound In The Years 1840-1: Sent By The Colonists Of South Australia By Eyre, Edward John
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Towards Evening, One Of The Horses
Having Broken His Hobbles, And Got Alarmed, Galloped Off, Taking The
Other With Him.
Tired and wet as I was, I was obliged to go after them,
and it was some miles from the camp, before I could overtake and turn
them back.
Our latitude was 30 degrees 55 minutes S.
July 15. - This morning was misty and clondy, and dreadfully cold. We set
off early and commenced tracing up and examining as many of the
watercourses as we could; we did not, however, find permanent water.
Under one low ridge we met with what I took to be a small spring
emanating from a limestone rock; but it was so small as to be quite
useless to a party like mine, though the natives appeared frequently to
have resorted to it. Finding the courses of the main channel become lost
in its many branches, I ascended the dividing ridge, and crossed into the
bed of another large watercourse, in which, after travelling but a short
distance, I found a fine spring of running water among some very broken
and precipitous ranges, which rose almost perpendicularly from the
channel; in the latter, high ledges of a slaty rock stretched
occasionally quite across its bed, making it both difficult and dangerous
to get our horses along. In the vicinity of the water the grass was
tolerably good, but the declivities upon which it principally grew, were
steep and very stony.
Having hobbled the horses, I took my gun, and walked down the
watercourse, to a place where it forms a junction with a larger one, but
in neither could I find any more water. Upon my return, I found that the
native boy had caught an opossum in one of the trees near, which proved a
valuable addition to our scanty and unvaried fare. The latitude to-day
was 30 degrees 51 minutes S.
July 16. - Tracing down the watercourse we were encamped on, to the
junction before mentioned, I steered a little more to the north, to
ascend a high stony range, from which I hoped to obtain a view to the
eastward; but after considerable toil in climbing, and dragging our
horses over loose rolling stones, which put them constantly in danger of
falling back, I was not rewarded for the trouble I had taken: the view to
the east was quite shut out by high rugged ranges of ironstone and
quartz, whilst to the north, the hills appeared lower and more open.
It now became a matter of serious consideration, whether I should pursue
my researches any farther at present. I was already about 120 miles away
from my party, with barely provisions enough to last me back; and the
country, in advance, appeared to be getting daily more difficult; added
to this, the "WATERWITCH" was waiting at the head of Spencer's Gulf for
my return.
After reflecting on my position, I decided to rejoin my party without
delay; and descending the range to the S. E., I steered for a large
watercourse we had crossed in the morning; intending to trace it up, for
the purpose of examining its branches. The bed of this watercourse, at
first, was very wide, and lined with gum-trees; but as I advanced, I
found its channel became contracted, and very rocky, the gum-trees
disappearing, and giving place to the salt-water tea-tree. By nightfall,
I was unable to proceed any further, owing to the large stones and rocks
that interposed themselves. Retracing my steps, therefore, for a mile or
two, to a little grass I had observed as I passed by, I bivouacked for
the night, being, as well as the horses, quite knocked up. The native
boy, who accompanied me, was equally fatigued; and we were both lame from
walking across so rugged a country, over a great portion of which we
found it quite impracticable to ride. Our stage could not have been less
than twenty-five or twenty-six miles during the day, yet we had not met
with a drop of water, even though we had high ranges, large watercourses,
and huge gum-trees on every side of us. As usual, the traces of high
floods were numerous; and the channels of these watercourses, confined as
they are by precipitous ranges, must, at times, be filled by rapid and
overwhelming torrents, which would collect there after heavy rains.
Some great progressive change appears to be taking place in the climate
and seasons of this part of the country, as, in many of the watercourses,
we found all the gum-trees either dying or dead, without any young trees
growing up to replace them. The moisture which had promoted their growth,
and brought them to maturity, existed no longer; and in many places, only
the wreck of noble trees remained to indicate to the traveller what once
had been the character of this now arid region. In other watercourses the
gum-trees were still green and flourishing, and of giant growth; but we
were equally unable to discover water in these,[Note 5: We had no means
with us of digging - possibly moisture existed below the surface where the
trees were so large and green.] as in those where the trees were decaying
or withered.
July 17. - To-day we returned to our temporary camp, tracing up various
branches of the water-courses as we went along, but without finding
water. Many of the ranges in our route consisted of masses of ironstone,
apparently containing a very large proportion of metal. In one place, I
found a mineral which I took to be tin ore; the loss, however, of all the
geological specimens I collected, after their arrival in Adelaide, has
unfortunately put it now beyond my power to test any of the rocks or
minerals, about which I was doubtful. As we encamped early, and I was
desirous of recruiting the horses, I employed myself in taking an
observation for latitude, whilst the black boy went out to look for an
opossum.
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