It Was About Five Feet High, And They Waxed Very Merry,
Whenever I Looked Up At It From My Skinning.
I left early next morning in the pouring rain, and found as I passed
through Serea that it was quite a town.
Quite a large crowd escorted
me down the steep banks of the river (Wainimala), and we were soon
spinning down stream in a large canoe. We soon joined another river
which, together with the Wainimala, formed the Rewa, the largest
river in Fiji. The scenery was both varied and picturesque, and once
I got the canoe paddled up a little shady creek where there was a very
beautiful waterfall, and where I was glad to stretch my legs for a few
minutes after being cramped up in the canoe. There were many pretty
and quaint villages on the banks, and the people often rushed out of
their huts to see us pass. Ducks were plentiful, and I got a fair bag
and used up my remaining cartridges, and the rest of the way 1 had to
be content with pointing my gun at them, which was very tantalizing. We
arrived about three p.m. at the village of Viria, and I stayed with the
"Buli" in his hut almost overhanging the river. In the evening I took a
stroll with the "Buli" round the village, and then we sat on a log by
the river chatting, with Masirewa acting as interpreter. We continued
our journey the next morning, and late in the day we passed large
fields of sugarcane. We had returned to civilization once more, and
I could not help feeling a pang of regret. We arrived at the village
of Navuso about four p.m., and I was the guest of Andi (princess)
Cakobau (pronounced Thakombau) and her husband, Ratu (prince)
Beni Tanoa. Princess Cakobau is the highest lady of rank in Fiji,
and belongs to the royal family. She is very stately and ladylike,
and in her younger days was very beautiful. She does not know any
English, but she wrote her autograph for me in my note-book to paste
on her photograph, as she writes a very good hand. Her husband is
also one of the highest chiefs in Fiji, and speaks good English. They
proved most hospitable, and presented me with some Fijian fans when
I left the next morning, and the Princess gave me a buttonhole of
flowers out of her garden. Dick Seddon, the Premier of New Zealand,
had once visited them, and I noticed his portrait that he had given
them fastened to a post in their hut. I left Navuso by steam launch
which called at the large sugar-mills a little lower down, and reached
Suva that afternoon, feeling very fit after one of the most enjoyable
and interesting expeditions that I ever made.
My Life Among Filipinos and Negritos and a Journey in Search of
Bearded Women.
CHAPTER 5
At Home Among Filipinos and Negritos.
Arrival at Florida Blanca - The Schoolmaster's House Kept by Pupils
in their Master's Absence - Everyday Scenes at Florida Blanca -
A Filipino Sunday - A Visit to the Cock-fighting Ring - A Strange
Church Clock and Chimes - Pugnacious Scene at a Funeral - Strained
Relations between Filipinos and Americans - My New Servant -
Victoriano, an Ex-officer of Aguinaldo's Army, and his Six Wives
- I Start for the Mountains - "Free and easy" Progress of my
Buffalo-cart - Ascent into the Mountains - Arrival at my Future
Abode - Description of my Hut and Food - Our Botanical Surroundings
- Meetings with the Negritos - Friendliness and Mirth of the Little
People - Negritos may properly be called Pigmies - Their Appearance,
Dress, Ornaments and Weapons - An Ingenious Pig-arrow - Extraordinary
Fish-traps - Their Rude Barbaric Chanting - Their Chief and His
House - Cure of a Malarial Fever and its Embarrassing Results -
"Agriculture in the Tropics" - A Hairbreadth Escape - Filipino
Blowpipes - A Pigmy Hawk in Pigmyland - The Elusive PITTA - Names of
the Birds - A Moth as Scent Producer - Flying Lizards and other kinds
- A "Tigre" Scare by Night - Enforced Seclusion of Female Hornbill.
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