We Soon Joined Another River
Which, Together With The Wainimala, Formed The Rewa, The Largest
River In Fiji.
The scenery was both varied and picturesque, and once
I got the canoe paddled up a little shady creek where there was a very
beautiful waterfall, and where I was glad to stretch my legs for a few
minutes after being cramped up in the canoe.
There were many pretty
and quaint villages on the banks, and the people often rushed out of
their huts to see us pass. Ducks were plentiful, and I got a fair bag
and used up my remaining cartridges, and the rest of the way 1 had to
be content with pointing my gun at them, which was very tantalizing. We
arrived about three p.m. at the village of Viria, and I stayed with the
"Buli" in his hut almost overhanging the river. In the evening I took a
stroll with the "Buli" round the village, and then we sat on a log by
the river chatting, with Masirewa acting as interpreter. We continued
our journey the next morning, and late in the day we passed large
fields of sugarcane. We had returned to civilization once more, and
I could not help feeling a pang of regret. We arrived at the village
of Navuso about four p.m., and I was the guest of Andi (princess)
Cakobau (pronounced Thakombau) and her husband, Ratu (prince)
Beni Tanoa. Princess Cakobau is the highest lady of rank in Fiji,
and belongs to the royal family. She is very stately and ladylike,
and in her younger days was very beautiful. She does not know any
English, but she wrote her autograph for me in my note-book to paste
on her photograph, as she writes a very good hand. Her husband is
also one of the highest chiefs in Fiji, and speaks good English. They
proved most hospitable, and presented me with some Fijian fans when
I left the next morning, and the Princess gave me a buttonhole of
flowers out of her garden. Dick Seddon, the Premier of New Zealand,
had once visited them, and I noticed his portrait that he had given
them fastened to a post in their hut. I left Navuso by steam launch
which called at the large sugar-mills a little lower down, and reached
Suva that afternoon, feeling very fit after one of the most enjoyable
and interesting expeditions that I ever made.
My Life Among Filipinos and Negritos and a Journey in Search of
Bearded Women.
CHAPTER 5
At Home Among Filipinos and Negritos.
Arrival at Florida Blanca - The Schoolmaster's House Kept by Pupils
in their Master's Absence - Everyday Scenes at Florida Blanca -
A Filipino Sunday - A Visit to the Cock-fighting Ring - A Strange
Church Clock and Chimes - Pugnacious Scene at a Funeral - Strained
Relations between Filipinos and Americans - My New Servant -
Victoriano, an Ex-officer of Aguinaldo's Army, and his Six Wives
- I Start for the Mountains - "Free and easy" Progress of my
Buffalo-cart - Ascent into the Mountains - Arrival at my Future
Abode - Description of my Hut and Food - Our Botanical Surroundings
- Meetings with the Negritos - Friendliness and Mirth of the Little
People - Negritos may properly be called Pigmies - Their Appearance,
Dress, Ornaments and Weapons - An Ingenious Pig-arrow - Extraordinary
Fish-traps - Their Rude Barbaric Chanting - Their Chief and His
House - Cure of a Malarial Fever and its Embarrassing Results -
"Agriculture in the Tropics" - A Hairbreadth Escape - Filipino
Blowpipes - A Pigmy Hawk in Pigmyland - The Elusive PITTA - Names of
the Birds - A Moth as Scent Producer - Flying Lizards and other kinds
- A "Tigre" Scare by Night - Enforced Seclusion of Female Hornbill.
When collecting in the Philippines, I put in most of my time in
the Florida Blanca Mountains, in the province of Pampanga, Northern
Luzon. I arrived one evening after dark at the good-sized village of
Florida Blanca, which is situated a few miles from the foot of the
mountain, whose name it shares. I carried a letter to the American
schoolmaster, who was the only white man in the district, and had been
a soldier in the late war. It seemed to me a curious policy on the part
of the American government to turn their soldiers into schoolmasters,
especially as in most cases they are very ignorant themselves. I
believe, however, the chief object is to teach the young Filipinos
English, and so turn them into live American citizens. The Americans
are far from popular in the Philippines, and when in Manila I was
strongly advised not to wear KHAKI in the jungle for fear of being
taken for an American soldier.
The American's house was dark and still when I arrived at Florida
Blanca, but whilst I was wondering what to do, I was surprised to
hear a small voice, coming out of a small adjoining house, say in
good English (though slowly and with a strong accent), "Thee -
master - has - gone - into - thee - mountains - to - kill -
deer - and - pigs." This was from one of the American's own pupils,
an intelligent little fellow named Camilo. As I learnt that he was not
expected back for two or three days, there was nothing left but to make
myself as comfortable as possible in his house until his return. Camilo
was soon boiling me some water, and I opened some of my provisions,
as I had eaten nothing for eight hours. The house was an ordinary
Filipino one, raised fully ten feet from the ground and built of
native timber, the peaked roof, which had a frame-work of bamboo,
being thatched with palm-leaves. The divisions between the rooms were
of plaited bamboo work, and the sliding windows were latticed, each
division being fitted with pieces of pearl shell. The next morning
I was invaded by quite an army of small boys, who, to my surprise,
all spoke English very prettily in their slow way and with a quaint
accent. I have never come across a more bright and intelligent set
of little fellows, all very friendly and not a bit shy, yet most
polite and well-mannered.
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