We Did Not Skirt The Coast, But Cut Across A
Large Open Expanse Of Sea For About Ninety Miles.
We then came to the
delta of the Rejang River, and went up one of its many mouths, which
Was of great width, though the scenery all the way was monotonous,
and consisted of nothing but mangroves, PANDANUS, the feathery NIPA
palm and the tall, slender "nibong" palm, with here and there a
crocodile lying, out on the mud banks - a dismal scene.
At nightfall we anchored a short way up the river, as the government
will not allow their boats to travel up the river by night, it being
unsafe. We were off again at daylight the next morning, the scenery
improving as the interminable mangroves gave place to the forest. Sixty
miles up the river found us at Sibu, where I put up with Dr. Hose,
the Resident, the celebrated Bornean explorer and naturalist. The
only other Europeans here were two junior officials, Messrs. Johnson
and Bolt. And yet there is a club at Sibu, a club for three, and here
these three officials meet every evening and play pool.
There is a fort in Sibu, as indeed there is at most of the river
places in Sarawak. It is generally a square-shaped wooden building,
perforated all round with small holes for rifles, while just below
the roof is a slanting grill-work through which it is easy to shoot,
though, as it is on the slant, it is hard for spears to enter from the
outside.
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