In Justice,
However, To The Ladies Of St. Sebastian, I Must Observe, That The Custom
Of Throwing Nosegays At Strangers,
For the purpose of bringing on
an assignation, which Doctor Solander, and another gentleman
of Mr. Cook's ship, met with
When here, was never seen by any of us
in a single instance. We were so deplorably unfortunate as to walk
every evening before their windows and balconies, without being honoured with
a single bouquet, though nymphs and flowers were in equal and great abundance.
Among other public buildings, I had almost forgot to mention an observatory,
which stands near the middle of the town, and is tolerably well furnished
with astronomical instruments. During our stay here, some Spanish
and Portuguese mathematicians were endeavouring to determine the boundaries
of the territories belonging to their respective crowns. Unhappily, however,
for the cause of science, these gentleman have not hitherto been able
to coincide in their accounts, so that very little information on this head,
to be depended upon, could be gained. How far political motives may have
caused this disagreement, I do not presume to decide; though it deserves
notice, that the Portuguese accuse the Abbee de la Caille, who observed here
by order of the King of France, of having laid down the longitude of this place
forty-five miles too much to the eastward.
Until the year 1770, all the flour in the settlement was brought from Europe;
but since that time the inhabitants have made so rapid a progress in raising
grain, as to be able to supply themselves with it abundantly.
The principal corn country lies around Rio Grande, in the latitude of
32 deg south, where wheat flourishes so luxuriantly, as to yield from
seventy to eighty bushels for one. Coffee also, which they formerly received
from Portugal, now grows in such plenty as to enable them to export
considerable quantities of it. But the staple commodity of the country
is sugar. That they have not, however, learnt the art of making palatable rum,
the English troops in New South Wales can bear testimony; a large quantity,
very ill flavoured, having been bought and shipped here for the use of
the garrison of Port Jackson.
It was in 1771 that St. Salvador, which had for more than a century
been the capital of Brazil, ceased to be so; and that the seat of Government
was removed to St. Sebastian. The change took place on account of
the colonial war, at that time carried on by the Courts of Lisbon and Madrid.
And, indeed, were the object of security alone to determine the seat
of Government, I know but few places better situated in that respect
than the one I am describing; the natural strength of the country,
joined to the difficulties which would attend an attack on the fortifications,
being such as to render it very formidable.
It may be presumed that the Portuguese Government is well apprized
of this circumstance and of the little risque they run in being deprived
of so important a possession, else it will not be easy to penetrate
the reasons which induce them to treat the troops who compose the garrison
with such cruel negligence. Their regiments were ordered out with a promise
of being relieved, and sent back to Europe at the end of three years,
in conformity to which they settled all their domestic arrangements.
But the faith of Government has been broken, and at the expiration
of twenty years, all that is left to the remnant of these unfortunate men,
is to suffer in submissive silence. I was one evening walking with
a Portuguese officer, when this subject was started, and on my telling him,
that such a breach of public honour to English troops would become a subject
of parliamentary enquiry, he seized my hand with great eagerness, "Ah, Sir!"
exclaimed he, "yours is a free country - we"! - - His emotions spoke
what his tongue refused.
As I am mentioning the army, I cannot help observing, that I saw nothing here
to confirm the remark of Mr. Cook, that the inhabitants of the place,
whenever they meet an officer of the garrison, bow to him with the greatest
obsequiousness; and by omitting such a ceremony, would subject themselves
to be knocked down, though the other seldom deigns to return the compliment.
The interchange of civilities is general between them, and seems
by no means extorted. The people who could submit to such insolent
superiority, would, indeed, deserve to be treated as slaves.
The police of the city is very good. Soldiers patrole the streets frequently,
and riots are seldom heard of. The dreadful custom of stabbing, from motives
of private resentment, is nearly at an end, since the church has ceased
to afford an asylum to murderers. In other respects, the progress
of improvement appears slow, and fettered by obstacles almost insurmountable,
whose baneful influence will continue, until a more enlightened system
of policy shall be adopted. From morning to night the ears of a stranger
are greeted by the tinkling of the convent bells, and his eyes saluted
by processions of devotees, whose adoration and levity seem to keep equal pace,
and succeed each other in turns. "Do you want to make your son sick
of soldiering? Shew him the Trainbands of London on a field-day."
Let him who would wish to give his son a distaste to Popery, point out to him
the sloth, the ignorance, and the bigotry of this place.
Being nearly ready to depart by the 1st of September, as many officers
as possible went on that day to the palace to take leave of his Excellency,
the Viceroy of the Brazils, to whom we had been previously introduced;
who on this, and every other occasion, was pleased to honour us with
the most distinguished marks of regard and attention. Some part, indeed,
of the numerous indulgencies we experienced during our stay here,
must doubtless be attributed to the high respect in which the Portuguese
held Governor Phillip, who was for many years a captain in their navy,
and commanded a ship of war on this station:
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