My hat having been knocked overboard
a few days before reaching Papeetee, I was obliged to mount an
abominable wad of parti-coloured worsted - what sailors call a Scotch
cap. Everyone knows the elasticity of knit wool; and this Caledonian
head-dress crowned my temples so effectually that the confined
atmosphere engendered was prejudicial to my curls. In vain I tried to
ventilate the cap: every gash made seemed to heal whole in no time.
Then such a continual chafing as it kept up in a hot sun.
Seeing my dislike to the thing, Kooloo, my worthy friend, prevailed
upon me to bestow it upon him. I did so; hinting that a good boiling
might restore the original brilliancy of the colours.
It was then that I mounted the turban. Taking a new Regatta frock of
the doctor's, which was of a gay calico, and winding it round my head
in folds, I allowed the sleeves to droop behind - thus forming a good
defence against the sun, though in a shower it was best off. The
pendent sleeves adding much to the effect, the doctor called me the
Bashaw with Two Tails.
Thus arrayed, we were ready for Tamai; in whose green saloons we
counted upon creating no small sensation.
CHAPTER LXII.
TAMAI
LONG before sunrise the next morning my sandals were laced on, and the
doctor had vaulted into Zeke's boots.
Expecting to see us again before we went to Taloo, the planters wished
us a pleasant journey; and, on parting, very generously presented us
with a pound or two of what sailors call "plug" tobacco; telling us
to cut it up into small change; the Virginian weed being the
principal circulating medium on the island.
Tamai, we were told, was not more than three or four leagues distant;
so making allowances for a wild road, a few hours to rest at noon,
and our determination to take the journey leisurely, we counted upon
reaching the shores of the lake some time in the flush of the
evening.
For several hours we went on slowly through wood and ravine, and over
hill and precipice, seeing nothing but occasional herds of wild
cattle, and often resting; until we found ourselves, about noon, in
the very heart of the island.
It was a green, cool hollow among the mountains, into which we at last
descended with a bound. The place was gushing with a hundred springs,
and shaded over with great solemn trees, on whose mossy boles the
moisture stood in beads. Strange to say, no traces of the bullocks
ever having been here were revealed. Nor was there a sound to be
heard, nor a bird to be seen, nor any breath of wind stirring the
leaves. The utter solitude and silence were oppressive; and after
peering about under the shades, and seeing nothing but ranks of dark,
motionless trunks, we hurried across the hollow, and ascended a steep
mountain opposite.
Midway up, we rested where the earth had gathered about the roots of
three palms, and thus formed a pleasant lounge, from which we looked
down upon the hollow, now one dark green tuft of woodland at our
feet. Here we brought forth a small calabash of "poee" a parting
present from Tonoi. After eating heartily, we obtained fire by two
sticks, and throwing ourselves back, puffed forth our fatigue in
wreaths of smoke. At last we fell asleep; nor did we waken till the
sun had sunk so low that its rays darted in upon us under the
foliage.
Starting up, we then continued our journey; and as we gained the
mountain top - there, to our surprise, lay the lake and village of
Tamai. We had thought it a good league off. Where we stood, the
yellow sunset was still lingering; but over the valley below long
shadows were stealing - the rippling green lake reflecting the houses
and trees just as they stood along its banks. Several small canoes,
moored here and there to posts in the water, were dancing upon the
waves; and one solitary fisherman was paddling over to a grassy
point. In front of the houses, groups of natives were seen; some
thrown at full length upon the ground, and others indolently leaning
against the bamboos.
With whoop and halloo, we ran down the hills, the villagers soon
hurrying forth to see who were coming. As we drew near, they gathered
round, all curiosity to know what brought the "karhowrees" into their
quiet country. The doctor contriving to make them understand the
purely social object of our visit, they gave us a true Tahitian
-welcome; pointing into their dwellings, and saying they were ours as
long as we chose to remain.
We were struck by the appearance of these people, both men and women;
so much more healthful than the inhabitants of the bays. As for the
young girls, they were more retiring and modest, more tidy in their
dress, and far fresher and more beautiful than the damsels of the
coast. A thousand pities, thought I, that they should bury their
charms in this nook of a valley.
That night we abode in the house of Rartoo, a hospitable old chief. It
was right on the shore of the lake; and at supper we looked out
through a rustling screen of foliage upon the surface of the starlit
water.
The next day we rambled about, and found a happy little community,
comparatively free from many deplorable evils to which the rest of
their countrymen are subject. Their time, too, was more occupied. To
my surprise, the manufacture of tappa was going on in several
buildings. European calicoes were seldom seen, and not many articles
of foreign origin of any description.
The people of Tamai were nominally Christians; but being so remote
from ecclesiastical jurisdiction, their religion sat lightly upon
them. We had been told, even, that many heathenish games and dances
still secretly lingered in their valley.
