The Cruise Of The Snark, By Jack London





















































































































 -   It is the bottom of a wave
striking against the top of the land that is the cause of all - Page 75
The Cruise Of The Snark, By Jack London - Page 75 of 305 - First - Home

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It Is The Bottom Of A Wave Striking Against The Top Of The Land That Is The Cause Of All Surfs.

But the transformation from a smooth undulation to a breaker is not abrupt except where the bottom shoals abruptly.

Say the bottom shoals gradually for from quarter of a mile to a mile, then an equal distance will be occupied by the transformation. Such a bottom is that off the beach of Waikiki, and it produces a splendid surf- riding surf. One leaps upon the back of a breaker just as it begins to break, and stays on it as it continues to break all the way in to shore.

And now to the particular physics of surf-riding. Get out on a flat board, six feet long, two feet wide, and roughly oval in shape. Lie down upon it like a small boy on a coaster and paddle with your hands out to deep water, where the waves begin to crest. Lie out there quietly on the board. Sea after sea breaks before, behind, and under and over you, and rushes in to shore, leaving you behind. When a wave crests, it gets steeper. Imagine yourself, on your hoard, on the face of that steep slope. If it stood still, you would slide down just as a boy slides down a hill on his coaster. "But," you object, "the wave doesn't stand still." Very true, but the water composing the wave stands still, and there you have the secret.

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