Numerous Heavy Cumuli Formed During The Afternoon.
March 27.
- We travelled to lat. 20 degrees 47 minutes 34 seconds. The
country along the river is undulating and hilly, and openly timbered. The
rock is of sandstone, and the ground is covered with quartz pebbles. In
lat. about 20 degrees 49 minutes, the Suttor is joined by a river as
large as itself, coming from the S.W. by W., and which changes the course
of the Suttor to the N.E. Just before the junction, the large bed of the
Suttor contracts into one deep channel, filled in its whole extent by a
fine sheet of water, on which Charley shot a pelican. I mention this
singular contraction, because a similar peculiarity was observed to occur
at almost every junction of considerable channels, as that of the Suttor
and Burdekin, and of the Lynd and the Mitchell. I named the river, which
here joins the Suttor, after Mr. Cape, the obliging commander of the
Shamrock steamer. The bed of the united rivers is very broad, with
several channels separated by high sandy bergues. The country back from
the river is formed by flats alternating with undulations, and is lightly
timbered with silver-leaved Ironbark, rusty gum, Moreton Bay ash, and
water box. The trees are generally stunted, and unfit for building; but
the drooping tea trees and the flooded-gum will supply sufficient timber
for such a purpose.
At our camp, at the bed of the river, granite crops out, and the sands
sparkle with leaflets of gold-coloured mica. The morning was clear and
hot; the afternoon cloudy; a thunder-storm to the north-east. We have
observed nothing of the sea-breeze of the Mackenzie and of Peak Range,
along the Suttor; but a light breeze generally sets in about nine o'clock
P.M.
Charley met with a flock of twenty emus, and hunted down one of them.
March 28. - We travelled down the river to latitude 20 degrees 41 minutes
35 seconds. The country was improving, beautifully grassed, openly
timbered, flat, or ridgy, or hilly; the ridges were covered with pebbles,
the hills rocky. The rocks were baked sandstone, decomposed granite, and
a dark, very hard conglomerate: the latter cropped out in the bed of the
river where we encamped. Pebbles of felspathic porphyry were found in the
river's bed. At some old camping places of the natives, we found the
seed-vessels of Pandanus, a plant which I had never seen far from the sea
coast; and also the empty shells of the seeds of a Cycas. Mr. Calvert,
John Murphy, and Brown, whom I had sent to collect marjoram, told me, at
their return, that they had seen whole groves of Pandanus trees; and
brought home the seed-vessel of a new Proteaceous tree. I went to examine
the locality, and found, on a sandy and rather rotten soil, the Pandanus
abundant, growing from sixteen to twenty feet high, either with a simple
stem and crown, or with a few branches at the top. The Proteaceous tree
was small, from twelve to fifteen feet high, of stunted and irregular
habit, with dark, fissured bark, and large medullary rays in its red
wood: its leaves were of a silvery colour, about two inches and a half
long, and three-quarters broad; its seed-vessels woody and orbicular,
like the single seed-vessels of the Banksia conchifera; the seeds were
surrounded by a broad transparent membrane. This tree, which I afterwards
found every where in the neighbourhood of the gulf of Carpentaria, was in
blossom from the middle of May to that of June. The poplar-gum, the
bloodwood, the melaleuca of Mt. Stewart, the Moreton Bay ash, the little
Severn tree, and a second species of the same genus with smooth leaves,
were growing on the same soil. The grasses were very various,
particularly in the hollows: and the fine bearded grass of the Isaacs
grew from nine to twelve feet in height. Charley brought me a branch of a
Cassia with a thyrse of showy yellow blossoms, which he said he had
plucked from a shrub about fifteen feet high.
We encamped about two miles from the foot of a mountain bearing about
N.E. from us; I called it Mount McConnel, after Fred. McConnel, Esq., who
had most kindly contributed to my expedition. The Suttor winds round its
western base, and, at four or five miles beyond it, in a northerly
direction, and in latitude 20 degrees 37 minutes 13 seconds joins a
river, the bed of which, at the junction, is fully a mile broad. Narrow
and uninterrupted belts of small trees were growing within the bed of the
latter, and separated broad masses of sand, through which a stream ten
yards broad and from two to three feet deep, was meandering; but which at
times swells into large sheets of water, occasionally occupying the whole
width of the river. Charley reported that he had seen some black swans,
and large flights of ducks and pelicans. This was the most northern point
at which the black swan was observed on our expedition.
CHAPTER VII
THE BURDEKIN - TRANSITION FROM THE DEPOSITORY TO THE PRIMITIVE
ROCKS - THACKER'S RANGE - WILD FIGS - GEOLOGICAL REMARKS - THE CLARKE - THE
PERRY.
As this place afforded every convenience for killing and curing another
bullock, we remained here for that purpose from the 29th March to the 2nd
of April. The weather was favourable for our operations, and I took two
sets of lunar observations, the first of which gave me longitude 146
degrees 1 minutes, and the second, 145 degrees 58 minutes. The mornings
were generally either cloudless, or with small cumuli, which increased as
the day advanced, but disappeared at sunset; the wind was, as far as I
could judge, northerly, north-easterly, and easterly.
April 2. - The Suttor was reported by Charley to be joined by so many
gullies and small creeks, running into it from the high lands, which
would render travelling along its banks extremely difficult, that I
passed to the east side of Mount McConnel, and reached by that route the
junction of the Suttor with the newly discovered river, which I called
the Burdekin, in acknowledgment of the liberal assistance which I
received from Mrs. Burdekin of Sidney, in the outfit of my expedition.
The course of this river is to the east by south; and I thought that it
would most probably enter the sea in the neighbourhood of Cape Upstart.
Flood marks, from fifteen to eighteen feet above the banks, showed that
an immense body of water occasionally sweeps down its wide channel.
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