The Margins Of Scrubs Were Generally
Provided With Chains Of Holes.
But a flat country, openly timbered,
without any break of the surface or of the forest, was by no
Means
encouraging; and I have frequently travelled more than twenty-five miles
in a straight line without obtaining my object, In coming on creeks, it
required some experience in the country, to know whether to travel up or
down the bed: some being well provided with water immediately at the foot
of the range, and others being entirely dry at their upper part, but
forming large puddled holes, lower down, in a flat country. From daily
experience, we acquired a sort of instinctive feeling as to the course we
should adopt, and were seldom wrong in our decisions.
The ridges, near the water-holes on which we were encamped, are composed
of an igneous rock containing much iron, with which the water was
impregnated to such a degree, that our tea turned quite black and inky.
The natives were very numerous in these parts, and their tracks were
everywhere visible. They had even followed the tracks of Mr. Gilbert's
and Brown's horses of the preceding day.
The night was bright; the day cloudy, and the wind easterly. I went with
Charley, in the afternoon of the 17th, to examine the extent of the
scrubby country, of which Mr. Gilbert had given us so poor an account.
The channel of the river became narrow and deep, with steep banks, as it
enters the scrub, and there the flooded gums entirely disappeared. The
scrub is about eight miles long, and from two to three miles broad, and
is tolerably open. The Bricklow is here a real tree, but of stunted
growth, with regularly fissured bark, like that of the Ironbark
(Eucalyptus resinifera). It has long broad falcate phyllodia, whilst
another species of the same size has an irregular scaly bark, with small
phyllodia, but of a greyer colour than those of the common Bricklow. Both
species grow promiscuously together. Where the river left the scrub, it
entered into a wild water-worn box flat, and cut up into several
irregular channels, lined by a dense thicket of narrow-leaved Melaleucas
of stunted growth and irregular shapes. The Box-tree itself is here a
different species, the bark has deeper fissures, and the young wood is
very yellow. I shall distinguish it by the name of "Water-box," as it
grows exclusively near creeks, or on the neighbouring flats. I first
observed it at the Mackenzie; its bark strips freely, but the stem is too
short and irregular to be of any use.
In passing a low hill, at the foot of which the box-flat commenced, we
came on a very distinct path of the natives, which led us to a deep
water-hole, covered with luxuriant grass; containing but a small quantity
of water. Farther on we came to a second hole better supplied, and to a
third; and at last Charley cried out, "Look there, Sir! what big water!"
and a long broad sheet of water stretched in sweeps through a dense
Bauhinia and Bricklow scrub, which covered its steep banks. It is a
singular character of this remarkable country, that extremes so often
meet; the most miserable scrub, with the open plain and fine forest land;
and the most paralysing dryness, with the finest supply of water.
Swarms of ducks covered the margin of the lake; pelicans, beyond the
reach of shot, floated on its bosom; land-turties plunged into its
waters; and shags started from dead trees lying half immersed, as we trod
the well-beaten path of the natives along its banks. The inhabitants of
this part of the country, doubtless, visit this spot frequently, judging
from the numerous heaps of muscle-shells. This fine piece of water,
probably in the main channel of the Suttor, is three miles long, and is
surrounded with one mass of scrub, which opens a little at its
north-western extremity.
March 10. - I continued my ride, ten or twelve miles down the river; the
scrub continued, but the immediate neighbourhood became a little more
open; several trees were observed, that had been recently cut by the
natives in search of honey or opossums. Emus were very numerous;
sometimes a solitary bird, and at others two, three, four, and up to
thirteen together, were seen trotting off in long file, and now and then
stopping to stare at us. We caught a bandicoot with two young ones, which
gave us an excellent luncheon. When we left the lake, Charley thought he
could distinguish a plain to the northward; and, riding in that
direction, I was agreeably surprised to find that the scrub did not
extend more than a mile and a-half from the river; and that, beyond it,
plains and open forest extended far to the northward; and fine ridges
with most excellent feed, to the southward. The traveller who is merely
following the course of a river, is unable to form a correct idea of the
country farther off, unless hills are near, from which he may obtain
extensive views. At the water-worn banks of the Mackenzie, I little
expected that we were in the vicinity of a country like that of Peak
Range; and I am consequently inclined to believe that much more available
land exists along the banks of the Suttor, where its valley is covered
with scrub, than we know anything about.
March 19. - The camp was removed to the lake of the Suttor, about twelve
miles and a-half N. 80 degrees W. We chased a flock of emus, but without
success; four of my companions went duck-shooting, but got very few; the
others angled, but nothing would bite.
The day was cloudy; some drizzling rain fell in the morning; the night
was clear. Lat. 21 degrees 37 minutes 31 minutes.
During my absence, my companions found a quantity of implements and
ornaments of the natives, in the neighbourhood of our last camp.
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