As They
Rode, One On The Right And The Other On The Left Side Of The River, A
Blackfellow Hailed
Charley and approached him, but when he saw Mr.
Roper - who crossed over upon being called - he immediately climbed a
Tree,
and his gin, who was far advanced in pregnancy, ascended another. As Mr.
Roper moved round the base of the tree, in order to look the Blackfellow
in the face, and to speak with him, the latter studiously avoided looking
at Mr. Roper, by shifting round and round the trunk like an iguana. At
last, however, he answered to the inquiry for water, by pointing to the
W. N. W. The woman also kept her face averted from the white man.
Proceeding farther down the river they saw natives encamped at a
water-hole, who, as soon as they became aware of the approach of the two
horsemen, withdrew with the greatest haste into the scrub; the men
driving the shrieking women and children before them. Upon Mr. Roper
galloping after them, one athletic fellow turned round and threatened to
throw his bommerang, at this sign of hostility Mr. Roper prudently
retired. Kangaroo and other nets made of some plant and not of bark,
koolimans, bommerangs, waddies, and a fine opossum cloak were found at
the camp, but were left untouched by our companions.
March 15. - Our party moved to the water-holes, where Mr. Roper had seen
the natives; the latter had removed their property, and were not
afterwards heard or seen by any of us. The general course of the river
was about south-west, and is joined by several scrub creeks; its bed is
broad and shallow, with numerous channels, separated by bergues; and the
river itself is split into several anabranches. The scrub is generally an
open Vitex; a fine drooping tea-tree lines the banks of the river;
Casuarina disappears; the flooded-gum is frequent, but of smaller size.
The Mackenzie-bean and several other papilionaceous plants, with some new
grasses, grow in it. The most interesting plant, however, is a species of
Datura, from one to two feet high, which genus has not previously been
observed in Australia. I also found species of Heliotropium of a most
fragrant odour.
Sandstone cropped out in several places, and red quartz pebbles were very
abundant in some parts of the river; the sands of its bed are so
triturated that no one would ever surmise the existence of granitic
rocks, at sixteen or twenty miles higher up. The whole country was flat;
no hill was visible, but, towards the end of our day's journey, we
crossed a few slight undulations.
During the night of the 14th, southerly winds were followed by a gale
from the eastward, with scud and drizzling rain. The morning of the 15th
was cloudy with a little rain; wind southerly. Early in the night, a
strong east-wind with drizzling long rain set in, but cleared up at
midnight. The morning of the 16th was cloudy, with a southerly wind. Our
lat. was 21 degrees 39 minutes 58 seconds.
March 17. - Mr. Gilbert and Brown went forward in search of water,
supposing that they would find it at a convenient distance, but were
unsuccessful, and, as they had taken neither guns nor provisions, they
were obliged to return. Keeping, however, a little more to the left, on
their return, they came to two fine water-holes at the foot of some
ironstone ridges, where they passed the night, and reached the camp the
following day, having had nothing to eat for twenty-four hours. The camp
was then moved to these water-holes, about nine miles off, in a due west
course. Fine water-holes were passed at a short half-mile from our camp;
and, after crossing the northern anabranch of the river, we again found
water.
The detection of isolated water-holes in a wooded country, where there is
nothing visible to indicate its presence, is quite a matter of chance. We
have often unconsciously passed well-filled water-holes, at less than a
hundred yards distant, whilst we were suffering severely from thirst. Our
horses and bullocks never showed that instinctive faculty of detecting
water, so often mentioned by other travellers; and I remember instances,
in which the bullocks have remained the whole night, not fifty yards from
water-holes, without finding them; and, indeed, whenever we came to small
water-holes, we had to drive the cattle down to them, or they would have
strayed off to find water elsewhere. On several occasions I followed
their tracks, and observed they were influenced entirely by their sight
when in search of it; at times attracted by a distant patch of deeper
verdure, at others following down a hollow or a watercourse, but I do not
recollect a single instance where they found water for themselves. The
horses, however, were naturally more restless and impatient, and, when we
approached a creek or a watercourse after a long journey, would descend
into the bed and follow it for long distances to find water; giving great
trouble to those who had to bring them back to the line of march.
Whenever they saw me halt at the place where I intended to encamp, they
not only quickened their pace, but often galloped towards me, well
knowing that I had found water, and that they were to be relieved of
their loads. In looking for water, my search was first made in the
neighbourhood of hills, ridges, and ranges, which from their extent and
elevation were most likely to lead me to it, either in beds of creeks, or
rivers, or in water-holes, parallel to them. In an open country, there
are many indications which a practised eye will readily seize: a cluster
of trees of a greener foliage, hollows with luxuriant grass, eagles
circling in the air, crows, cockatoos, pigeons (especially before
sunset), and the call of Grallina Australis and flocks of little finches,
would always attract our attention.
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