I
Attempted To Sketch It In Its Whole Extent, And Gave To Its Most
Remarkable Peaks Separate Names.
A long flat-topped mountain I called
"Lord's Table Range," after E. Lord, Esq., of Moreton Bay; and a
Sharp
needle-like rock, which bore west-by-north, received the name of
"Fletcher's Awl," after Mr. John Fletcher, whose kind contribution
towards my expedition had not a little cheered me in my undertaking.
Towards the east and north-east, a flat country extended, in which the
smoke of several fires of the natives was seen, and, in the distance,
several blue ranges were distinguished. To the northward, the country was
very mountainous, and in the north-west, at a short distance, Phillips's
Mountain reared its head. Many shallow valleys, at present of an
earth-brown colour, led down from the range. A large creek - which
probably collects all the waters that we had passed on the east side of
the range, and which I descended during my ride of the 3rd
February - flows down a very conspicuous valley to the eastward. I named
this creek after - Stephens, Esq., of Darling Downs; and the peak on
which I stood after - Campbell, Esq., of the same district. Both these
gentlemen had shown the greatest hospitality to me and to my party during
our stay at the Downs, before starting on the expedition. The rock of
Campbell's Peak is domitic; at the top it is of a bluish colour and very
hard, and contains very visible, though minute, crystals of felspar.
In a hollow between the two rocky protuberances on the west side of the
hill, a noble fig-tree spread its rich dark-green shady foliage; and on
the steep slopes Erythrina was frequent. I could not help contrasting the
character of this place with the moist creeks and mountain brushes of the
Bunya Bunya country near Moreton Bay, where I had been accustomed to
observe the same plant. Proceeding to the N.N.E. we passed several creeks
or watercourses, some fine open Ironbark slopes, and a sandstone range;
and, following down a watercourse, came to a creek which seemed to
originate in Phillips's Mountain. This creek contained water; it flowed
to the south-east and east, and very probably joined Stephens's Creek. A
rather stunted rusty gum grew plentifully on the sandstone ridges;
pebbles of concretionary limestone were found in the creek, probably
carried down from the basalt of Phillips's Mountain; and a deposit of
concretionary limestone was observed in the banks of a creek, whilst
passing one of the black plains, on this side of the range. A profusion
of Calcedony, and fine specimens of Agate, were observed in many places,
along the basaltic ridges. My black companions loaded themselves with the
pretty agates, which they had never seen before, and which they evidently
considered to be very valuable; but, after a little time, the weight
became inconvenient, and they kept only a few, to strike fire with.
Feb. 7. - Having sent Brown back to guide our party to this creek, which
is about six miles N. N. E. from yesterday's camping place, in latitude
22 degrees 32 minutes 27 seconds; I continued my ride with Charley to the
north-west. We ascended a high sandstone range, and travelled for some
miles along its flat summit. The country was very broken, but openly
timbered, and occasionally of a most beautiful character; but frequently
interrupted by patches of miserable scrub. Having in our progress brought
Mount Phillips to bear south-west and south, we entered a fine open
Bastard-box country, with slight undulations, and which seemed to extend
to Peak Range. On the sandstone range I found Balfouria saligna R. Br., a
shrub or small tree, with long linear-lanceolate leaves, and rather
drooping branches, covered with very fragrant yellow blossoms; its
seed-vessels varied from three to six inches in length, were terete,
tapering to a point, and filled with silky seeds. The same little tree
was subsequently observed, growing round the head of the gulf of
Carpentaria, and also at Arnheim's Land. Another shrub (Gardenia?), with
opposite, oval, rather rough leaves, and large white or light yellow
blossoms, like those of the Jasmine in shape and fragrance, had been
observed once before, but was very common between this latitude and Port
Essington; at which place a species of Guettarda, resembling it very
much, but with larger flowers, grows along the beach.
The last two days the mornings were clear; during the afternoon of each
day cirrhi formed, which settling down, became confluent, and united into
a dark cloud which promised rain, but dispersed towards evening; and the
sun set in a cloudless horizon: in the morning, a northerly breeze is
generally stirring, which renders that part of the day more agreeable for
travelling.
Feb. 8. - I returned last night to the creek, from which I had sent Brown
back, and found my companions encamped on a very fine water-hole. This
morning we travelled to the water-holes I had seen about seven miles in
advance to the north-west, and about five or six miles due north from
Phillips's Mountain. After our mid-day meal, I set out again with the two
Blackfellows, not only with a view to find water for the next stage, but
to endeavour to make the table land again, and thence to pursue a more
westerly course.
A great number of sandstone ranges, several of them very steep, and of
considerable elevation, stretch parallel to each other from west to east,
forming spurs from a higher mountain range to the westward, which is
probably connected with Peak Range. It is composed of basalt, and partly
covered with dense scrub, and in other parts openly timbered; where the
scrub prevailed, the soil was shallow and rocky, but the soil of the open
forest was deeper, and of the character of that of the plains. The deep
gullies were all without water, but occasionally filled with patches of
rich brush.
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