Large Heaps Of Muscle-Shells, Which Have
Given Food To Successive Generations Of The Natives, Cover The Steep
Sloping Banks Of The River, And Indicate That This Part Of The Country Is
Very Populous.
The tracks of the natives were well beaten, and the
fire-places in their camps numerous.
The whole country had been on fire;
smouldering logs, scattered in every direction, were often rekindled by
the usual night breeze, and made us think that the Blackfellows were
collecting in numbers around us, - and more particularly on the opposite
side of the river; added to which, the incessant splashing of numerous
large fishes greatly contributed to augment our fears. As a matter of
precaution, therefore, we tied our horses near our sleeping-place, and
gathered the grass which grew along the edge of the water for them to
eat; and it was not till daylight that our alarm vanished.
Jan. 15. - Having now ascertained, beyond a doubt, that the Mackenzie
flowed to the north-east, I returned to the camp, resolved upon leaving
it and renewing my course to the west-north-west and north-west; but, as
it was extremely doubtful whether we should find water in travelling
across the country without a leading watercourse, and as we had failed in
procuring a sufficient quantity of game, I determined to take this
favourable opportunity of killing a bullock before leaving the river.
Jan. 16. - On returning, we found our party encamped about four miles
lower down the river than where I had left them. I then removed them to a
more convenient spot about two miles still lower down (lat. 23 degrees 21
minutes 30 seconds). Just at the moment we were preparing to shoot the
bullock, we heard the cooee of a native, and in a short time two men were
seen approaching and apparently desirous of having a parley. Accordingly,
I went up to them; the elder, a well made man, had his left front tooth
out, whilst the younger had all his teeth perfect; he was of a muscular
and powerful figure, but, like the generality of Australian aborigines,
had rather slender bones; he had a splendid pair of moustachios, but his
beard was thin. They spoke a language entirely different from that of the
natives of Darling Downs, but "yarrai" still meant water. Charley, who
conversed with them for some time, told me that they had informed him, as
well as he could understand, that the Mackenzie flowed to the north-east.
Brown found an empty seed-vessel of the Nelumbium, in their camp. At
sunset we killed our bullock, and during the 17th and 18th occupied
ourselves in cutting up the meat, drying it in the sun, frying the fat,
preparing the hide, and greasing our harness. Charley, in riding after
the horses, came to some fine lagoons, which were surrounded by a deep
green belt of Nelumbiums. This plant grows, with a simple tap root, in
the deep soft mud, bearing one large peltate leaf on a leaf stalk, about
eight feet high, and from twelve to eighteen inches in diameter, the
flower-stalk being of the same length or even longer, crowned with a pink
flower resembling that of a Nymphaea, but much larger: its seed-vessel is
a large cone, with perpendicular holes in its cellular tissue, containing
seeds, about three quarters of an inch in length. We found the following
shells in the river, viz.; two species of Melania, a Paludina, the
lanceolate Limnaea, a cone-shaped Physa (?), a Cyclas with longitudinal
ribs, and the Unio before described. Murphy shot an Ostioglossum, a
Malacopterygious fish, about three feet long, with very large scales,
each scale having a pink spot. We afterwards found this fish in the
waters flowing into the Gulf of Carpentaria; both on its eastern and
western sides: and, according to the natives of Port Essington, to whom I
showed the dried specimen, it is also found in the permanent water-holes
of the Cobourg peninsula.
Jan. 18. - Leaving my party to complete the process of drying and packing
the charqui, I started with my two black companions to examine the
country to the north-west. After passing the gullies in the immediate
neighbourhood of the river, we came to sandstone ridges covered with an
almost impenetrable scrub; chiefly composed of stiff and prickly shrubs,
many of them dead, with dry branches filling the intervals. As no grass
grew on the poor soil, the bush-fires - those scavengers of the
forest - are unable to enter and consume the dead wood, which formed the
principal obstacle to our progress. Difficult, however, as it was to
penetrate such thickets with pack-bullocks, I had no choice left, and
therefore proceeded in the same direction. In a short time, we reached an
open Bricklow scrub containing many dry water-holes, which, farther on,
united into a watercourse. We passed a creek flowing to the eastward to
join the Mackenzie, and continued our route through patches of Bricklow
scrub, alternating with Bastard-box forest, and open Vitex scrub, in
which the Moreton Bay ash was very plentiful. About eight miles from our
camp, we came upon an open forest of narrow-leaved Ironbark (E.
resinifera) and Bastard-box, covering gentle slopes, from which shallow
well-grassed hollows descended to the westward. Coming again on scrub,
and following it down in a westerly direction, we came to a dry creek;
and found water in holes along the scrub. Considering this a favourable
place for the camp, I sent Charley back, to guide my party through the
scrub; whilst I proceeded with Brown to examine the creek upwards, to the
north-west. After a ride of about five miles, during which several fine
lagoons were seen, we reached a prominent hill of sandstone formation,
surrounded by a most beautiful, open, silver-leaved Ironbark forest,
changing occasionally into plains without a tree. I ascended the hill,
and obtained a very extensive view from its summit.
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