CHAPTER XIV INTERVIEW WITH A NATIVE - DISTRESSING HEAT - A HORSE STAKED:
IT
DIES - MYRIADS OF FLYING-FOXES - MAGNIFICENT VALLEY - FRIENDLY
NATIVES - SHOT EXHAUSTED - INSTINCT OF BULLOCKS - SOUTH
ALLIGATOR RIVER - FRIENDLY NATIVES WITH AN ENGLISH
HANDKERCHIEF, AND ACQUAINTED WITH FIRE-ARMS - THEIR
LANGUAGE - MIRAGE.
CHAPTER XV JOY AT MEETING NATIVES SPEAKING SOME ENGLISH - THEY ARE VERY
FRIENDLY - ALLAMURR - DISCERNMENT OF NATIVE SINCERITY - EAST
ALLIGATOR RIVER - CLOUDS OF DUST MISTAKEN FOR SMOKE -
IMPATIENCE TO REACH THE END OF THE JOURNEY - NATIVES STILL
MORE INTELLIGENT - NYUALL - BUFFALOES; SOURCE FROM WHICH THEY
SPRUNG - NATIVE GUIDES ENGAGED; BUT THEY DESERT US - MOUNT
MORRIS BAY - RAFFLES BAY - LEAVE THE PACKHORSE AND BULLOCK
BEHIND - BILL WHITE - ARRIVE AT PORT ESSINGTON - VOYAGE
TO SYDNEY.
APPENDIX
LETTER FROM THE COLONIAL SECRETARY TO DR. LEICHHARDT
THE LEICHHARDT TESTIMONIAL
* * * * *
LIST OF PLATES (Not included in this etext)
Lagoon near South Alligator River
Portraits of "Charley" and "Harry Brown"
Mount Nicholson, Expedition Range, etc.
Peak Range
Red Mountain
Fletcher's Awl, etc.
Campbell's Peak
Mount M'Connel.
Ranges seen from a granitic hill between second and third camp
at the Burdekin
Robey's Range
Grasshopper
View near South Alligator River
Victoria Square, Port Essington
INTRODUCTION
ORIGIN OF THE EXPEDITION - PARTY FORMED - LEAVE SYDNEY FOR BRISBANE - PARTY
ENLARGED - OUTFIT AND STORES.
On my return to Moreton Bay, from an exploratory journey in the country
northward of that district, which had occupied me for two years, I found
that the subject of an overland expedition to Port Essington on the North
Coast of Australia, was occupying much attention, as well on the part of
the public as on that of the Legislative Council, which had earnestly
recommended the appropriation of a sum of money to the amount of 1000
pounds, for the equipment of an expedition under Sir Thomas Mitchell, to
accomplish this highly interesting object. Some delay was, however,
caused by the necessity of communicating with the Secretary of State for
the Colonies; and in the mean time it was understood that Captain Sturt
was preparing to start from Adelaide to proceed across the Continent.
From the experience which I had gained during my two years' journeyings,
both in surmounting the difficulties of travelling through a broken
mountainous country, and in enduring privations of every sort, "I was
inspired with the desire of attempting it," provided I could be assisted
in the expense that would necessarily be incurred for the outfit, and
could find a few companions who would be contented with animal food, and
willingly and patiently submit to the privation of flour, tea, and sugar,
and resign themselves to my guidance.
I had well considered this interesting subject in all its bearings, and
had discussed it with many of my acquaintances at Brisbane and its
neighbouring district; who were generally of opinion that it was
practicable, under the plan I had marked out: but with others,
particularly at Sydney, I had to contend against a strong but kindly
meant opposition to my journey. Some, who took more than a common
interest in my pursuits, regretted that I should leave so promising a
field of research as that which offered itself within the limits of New
South Wales, and in which they considered I had laboured with some
success during the last two years. Others considered the undertaking
exceedingly dangerous, and even the conception of it madness on my part;
and the consequence of a blind enthusiasm, nourished either by a deep
devotion to science, or by an unreasonable craving for fame: whilst
others did not feel themselves justified in assisting a man who they
considered was setting out with an intention of committing suicide. I was
not, however, blind as to the difficulties of the journey which I was
determined to undertake; on the contrary, and I hope my readers will
believe me to be sincere, I thought they would be many and great - greater
indeed than they eventually proved to be; but, during my recent
excursions through the Squatting districts, I had so accustomed myself to
a comparatively wild life, and had so closely observed the habits of the
aborigines, that I felt assured that the only real difficulties which I
could meet with would be of a local character. And I was satisfied that,
by cautiously proceeding, and always reconnoitring in advance or on
either side of our course, I should be able to conduct my party through a
grassy and well watered route; and, if I were so fortunate as to effect
this, I felt assured that the journey, once commenced, would be finished
only by our arrival at Port Essington. Buoyed up by this feeling, and by
confidence in myself, I prevailed against the solicitations and arguments
of my friends, and commenced my preparations, which, so far as my own
slender means and the contributions of kind friends allowed, were rather
hurriedly completed by the 13th August, 1844.
As our movements were to be comparatively in light marching order, our
preparations were confined more to such provisions and stores as were
actually necessary, than to anything else. But I had frequently reason to
regret that I was not better furnished with instruments, particularly
Barometers, or a boiling water apparatus, to ascertain the elevation of
the country and ranges we had to travel over. The only instruments which
I carried, were a Sextant and Artificial Horizon, a Chronometer, a hand
Kater's Compass, a small Thermometer, and Arrowsmith's Map of the
Continent of New Holland.
In arranging the plan of my journey I had limited my party to six
individuals; and although many young men volunteered their services, I
was obliged to decline their offers, and confine myself to the stated
number, as it was intimately connected with the principles and the means
on which I started.
On leaving Sydney, my companions consisted of Mr. James Calvert; Mr. John
Roper; John Murphy, a lad of about 16 years old: of William Phillips, a
prisoner of the Crown; and of "Harry Brown," an aboriginal of the
Newcastle tribe: making with myself six individuals.
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