When We Arrived At The Foot Of The Range, Our Cattle And
Horses Were So Jaded, And The Water-Hole
Still so far off, that I
encamped here, more especially as the feed was young and rich, and as I
Had hopes of obtaining water by digging into the sand which filled the
upper part of the valley. In this, however, I did not succeed; for, upon
digging about three feet deep, I came on a layer of stiff clay very hard
and dry. Fortunately, however, a thunder-storm came on towards the
evening, which supplied our cattle as well as ourselves with water. This
was the only time we encamped without a certainty of water, during our
journey from Jimba to the head of the gulf, which occupied ten months.
The whole night was showery, the wind and clouds coming from all
directions.
Dec. 14. - We reached the water-holes I had discovered three days
previous. Our cattle were very thirsty, notwithstanding the late rain,
and they rushed into the water as soon as they got sight of it.
The hills, at the foot of which we are encamped, are composed of
whinstone (basalt). Pebbles of conglomerate, of flint, and of quartz
deeply coloured with iron, are, however, very frequent on the slopes. It
is remarkable that that part of the range which is composed of basalt, is
a fine open forest, whereas the basaltic hills of the large valley are
covered with dense scrub. The Myal was frequent; and the fruit of the
small lemon-tree was ripe.
I followed the watercourse which connects the water-holes on which we
encamped, and met every where with Bricklow scrub. Mr. Gilbert ascended
the hills, and stated that the whole valley to the westward appeared like
an immense sea of scrub.
A thunder-storm was forming to the north-west, but was probably deflected
by the ranges.
Dec. 15. - Last night we had two thunder-storms; one rose in the west, and
turned to the northward, following the Christmas Ranges; the other rose
in the south, and turned to the east, probably attracted by Expedition
Range. Still following the watercourse, we entered, after about four
miles travelling, into the scrub. The watercourse was soon lost in the
level ground, and water-holes appeared every where; the general direction
of the waters seemed to be to the north-west. Four miles farther we came
to a piece of open forest at the foot of a hill, which was covered with
ironstone-pebbles. Here we encamped without water; but, having passed
good water-holes not four miles distant, I sent Mr. Calvert and Brown to
fetch some, whilst I and Charley went forward to examine the country. On
my way to some ranges which I had seen to the eastward, I fell in with a
dry watercourse, and, following it down for about half a mile from the
camp, discovered a well-filled water-hole. The watercourse was found to
join a creek with a deep and very wide bed, but dry. Muscle-shells
strewed in every direction, and other appearances, indicated that, during
the wet season, the whole country must be very swampy. The course of the
creek was to the N. N. W., and it is joined by watercourses from the
right and left; all now quite dry. After having followed the creek for
about twelve miles, until sunset, without coming to the end of the scrub
through which it trended, we were compelled to retrace our steps; in
attempting which my companion, Charley, lost the track, but my good
little horse, Jim Crow, guided us to the camp, which we reached about
eleven o'clock. Mr. Calvert and Brown had not yet returned; although the
report of their guns had been heard several times. The night was
extremely cold, notwithstanding we were encamped under the shelter of
trees: and it was therefore evident that we were at a considerable
elevation above the level of the sea. The Box-tree of Jimba-flats, the
Bricklow - in short, the whole vegetation of the scrubby country, west of
Darling Downs, were still around us; and the Moreton Bay ash (a species
of Eucalyptus) - which I had met with, throughout the Moreton Bay
district, from the sea coast of the Nynga Nyngas to Darling Downs - was
here also very plentiful.
Dec. 16. - Our cattle and our horses, with the exception of those we had
used the night before, had strayed in search of water; but Charley found
them on the sow-thistle plains, beyond our last camp. Messrs. Calvert,
Murphy, and Brown, came in early this morning; they had lost their way in
the dark, in consequence of remaining too long at the water-hole. They
informed me that they had passed the night on an open piece of forest
ground along a creek. This intelligence induced me to examine the
locality: I therefore went with Brown, and found the creek, with a deep
sandy, but dry bed, full of reeds; its direction being from south by west
to north by east. I followed it up about eight miles, when the scrub
receded from its left bank, and a fine open extensive flat stretched to
the westward. I looked into the Casuarina thickets which occasionally
fringed its bank, in search of water; but found none. I was frequently on
the point of returning, but, induced by the presence of reeds, continued
the search, until the scrub again approached the right side of the creek;
and, in one of those chains of ponds which almost invariably exist at the
outside of these scrubs, a small pool of water was found. This gave me
fresh confidence, and I was eagerly examining the creek, when Brown
exclaimed, "Plenty of water, sir! plenty of water!" and a magnificent
lagoon, surrounded by a rich belt of reeds, lay before us. The natives
must have been at this spot some time before, and have burned the grass;
as the earth was now covered with a delicate verdure.
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