We Had To Wind Our Way Through Narrow Valleys, And
Over Ranges From Which The Descent Was Frequently Very Steep And
Dangerous.
The latitude of our camp of the 21st November was 25 degrees
28 minutes 12 seconds; that of the 22nd was 25 degrees 25 minutes; that
of the 23rd, about 32 miles west of Murphy's Lake, was 25 degrees 27
minutes 12 seconds.
Here the ranges were, for the most part, openly
timbered, with the exception of the higher points, which were generally
covered with vine-brush; in one of which we found the nests of the brush
turkey (Talegalla Lathami), and observed the bird itself. Some
considerable stretches of beautiful country were now travelled over; the
leading feature being low ridges, openly timbered with the silver-leaved
ironbark, covered with an abundance of grass and herbs, and furnished
with large lagoons; there was also a constant supply of water in the
creek itself. On the banks of the latter, a species of Sterculia grows to
a large size, and is one of the most pleasing and ornamental trees of the
country; it is probably different from, although nearly allied to S.
heterophylla. Very disagreeable, however, was the abundance of Burr and
of a spear-grass (Aristida), which attached themselves to our clothes and
blankets, and entered (particularly the latter) into the very skin. I
have also to mention, that a yellow Villarsia was found on one of the
lakes; which were generally surrounded by high sedges. We have not seen
black swans since leaving Murphy's Lake; at which place we first saw a
species of whistling duck, (Leptotarsis, GOULD.)
Appearances indicated that the commencement of the ranges was a favourite
resort of the "Blackfellows." The remains of recent repasts of muscles
were strewed about the larger water-holes, and, as I passed a native
camp, which had only lately been vacated, I found, under a few sheets of
bark, four fine kangaroo nets, made of the bark of Sterculia; also
several bundles of sticks, which are used to stretch them. As I was in
the greatest want of cordage, I took two of these nets; and left, in
return, a fine brass hilted sword, the hilt of which was well polished,
four fishing-hooks, and a silk handkerchief; with which, I felt
convinced, they would be as well pleased, as I was with the cordage of
their nets. It was to this spot that Mr. Pemberton Hodgson penetrated,
when he afterwards followed my tracks, to ascertain the truth of the
rumours, which had been carried by the blacks to Moreton Bay, of my
having been either killed by the natives, or destroyed by a hurricane,
which was said to have passed through the narrow valley of the confined
creek.
The high mountain ranges, at the head of Robinson's Creek, which we
observed from the tops of the hills, at the entrance into the mountainous
country, bore W.N.W., and N.W. from the position I now occupied. We had a
thunder-storm on the 21st November, followed by continued rain and a
perfect calm During the night occasional showers of rain fell; at sunrise
light fleecy clouds from W.N.W.: the nights, when clear, were very cold.
Until very lately we had all suffered severely from diarrhoea, which I
could not account for, othewise than by attributing it to our change of
diet. Fresh meat had almost invariably affected us; but after a time our
continued exposure to the air, the regularity of our movements, and
constant state of exertion, rendered us more hardy, and sharpened our
appetites. Iguanas, opossums, and birds of all kinds, had for some time
past been most gladly consigned to our stewing-pot, neither good, bad,
nor indifferent being rejected. The dried kangaroo meat, one of our
luxuries, differed very little in flavour from the dried beef, and both,
after long stewing, afforded us an excellent broth, to which we generally
added a little flour. It is remarkable how soon man becomes indifferent
to the niceties of food; and, when all the artificial wants of society
have dropped off, the bare necessities of life form the only object of
his desires.
One of our bullocks had torn one of the flour-bags, and about fifteen
pounds of flour were scattered over the ground. We all set to work, to
scrape as much of it up as we could, using the dry gum leaves as spoons
to collect it; and, when it got too dirty to mix again with our flour,
rather than leave so much behind, we collected about six pounds of it
well mixed with dried leaves and dust, and of this we made a porridge, - a
mess which, with the addition of some gelatine, every one of us enjoyed
highly.
No new insects, few new birds, and but few plants, attracted our
attention. Mr. Gilbert's parrot, which he first met with on the downs,
was very frequent; the glucking-bird and the barking-owl were heard
throughout the moonlight nights. Several native dogs were killed, and
their howling was frequently heard. Only one kangaroo had been shot since
we left the Dawson, although their tracks were met with every where.
Charley had taken several opossums; the presence of these animals
generally indicates a good country. Quails were abundant, but not worth
our powder; flocks of spur-winged plovers were living at the lakes and
swamps, and a shy hornbill (Scythrops) was seen and heard several times.
The nests of the white ant were rarely seen; but the soldier ant, and the
whole host of the others, were every where. The funnel ant digs a
perpendicular hole in the ground, and surrounds the opening with an
elevated wall, sloping outwards like a funnel; the presence of this
insect generally indicates a rotten soil, into which horses and cattle
sink beyond their fetlocks. This soil is, however, by no means a pure
sand, but is well mixed with particles of clay, which allow the ant to
construct its fabric.
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