However, about five
miles farther, we found a small pool, at which natives had very recently
encamped, and, three miles farther, two fine water-holes fringed with
Pandanus.
Our bullocks and horses were very foot-sore, and could scarcely move over
the rocky ground.
The ridges at the head of this western creek were covered with an
arborescent Capparis, the ripe fruit of which tasted very like
strawberries; but those which were not ripe were very pungent. Another
little tree, belonging to the Hamelieae D.C., with large white fragrant
blossoms, and fruit about two inches long and one broad, with numerous
seeds nestling in a pulpy substance, was very abundant. In its ripe
state, the pulp turned black; I ate some of it, but although it proved to
be harmless, it was not good. The little bread-fruit of the upper Lynd,
no doubt belonged to the same class of plants.
I believe that all the creeks which we passed since leaving the Roper,
still belonged to that river; and that the western creek and all the
western waters we met, until reaching the South Alligator river, belonged
to the system of the latter. The division of the eastern and western
waters was, according to my reckoning, in longitude 133 degrees 35
minutes.
Nov. 7. - We followed the creek for about four or five miles, and halted
at a well-grassed spot with good water-holes, in order to kill one of our
bullocks, and allow the other two and the horses to recover. The poor
brute was fairly knocked up and incapable of going any farther, even
without a load. Some of my readers may wonder that our bullocks should
suffer so much when travelling through a country both well grassed and
well watered, and by such short stages; but they should consider the
climate in which we travelled, and the excessive heat to which we were
exposed. The rocky nature of the ground contributed no less to their
foot-weariness and exhaustion. If I could have rested two or three days
out of seven, the animals would have had time to recover, and would have
done comparatively well. But, independent of the fatigues of travelling,
the relaxing and enervating influence of the climate was as visible in
our cattle as in ourselves.
The apple-gum, a bloodwood, and the poplar-gum(?) grew round our camp;
the grasses were tender, but formed distinct tufts; Crinum was plentiful.
The night breeze set in at a quarter to 9 o'clock from north-east, or
north by east, strong, full and warm; there was a slight moisture in the
air before daybreak, which rendered our almost dry meat a little damp
again.
We were occupied during the 8th Nov. in drying our meat, mending and
washing our things, and arranging the few loads which were left.
Nov. 9. - We travelled down the creek in a south-west course, for about
nine miles. Low sandstone ranges bounded its valley to the southward and
south-east; stony ridges with stunted trees and Cypress-pine extended to
the north-west. The banks of the creek, which I called "Snowdrop's
Creek," after the bullock we had killed, were grassy and open; it was
well provided with water. A pretty little Sida, a Convolvolus, and
Grewia, were growing amongst the young grass. Mr. Calvert saw the
Livistona palm.
We felt a breeze from the eastward during the afternoon, as usual, and
the strong night breeze from north and north-east; but, in the morning, a
wind from north-west and west, which belonged probably to another system
of atmospherical movements.
A swarm of whistling ducks (Leptotarsis Eytoni, GOULD.) passed during the
night from down the creek to the eastward, which made me suppose that
Snowdrop's Creek was either joined by large creeks with water, or that
itself joined a larger river. The black Ibis was frequent at the
water-hole.
Nov. 10. - We travelled about six miles and a half N. N. W. The creek
turned so far to the westward and southward, that I left it, and crossed
some ridges, beyond which a very rocky creek going down to Snowdrop's
Creek, intercepted our course. Having crossed it with great difficulty,
we travelled through a scrubby forest, and came to the heads of the same
creek, several of which were formed by swamps. Here the drooping
tea-tree, growing in a sandy peat, attained a stately height. The sandy
slopes around the swamps were covered with Banksia, the Melaleuca gum,
and Pandanus, and a rich profusion of grasses and low sedges surrounded
the deep pools of spring water. These spots, which bore the marks of
being much visited by the natives, were like oases in the dry, dull,
sandy forest, and formed delightful shady groves, pleasing to every
sense. Kangaroos and various birds, particularly the white cockatoo, were
numerous; and the little bees came like flies on our hands, on my paper,
and on our soup plates, and indicated abundance of honey; a small species
of Cicada had risen from its slumbers, and was singing most cheerfully.
One of our horses was seriously staked in the belly, by some
unaccountable accident; I drew a seton through the large swelling,
although, considering its exhausted state, I entertained but a slight
hope of its recovery.
Nov. 11. - We accomplished about ten miles in a direct line, but on a long
and fatiguing circuitous course. Starting in a northerly direction, we
passed over some rocky ground, but soon entered into a sandy level,
covered with scrubby, stringy-bark forest, intermixed with Melaleuca gum.
At the distance of four miles I came to a rocky creek going to the
westward, which I followed.
