You Understand, Sir," And She Put Sovereign Into His
Hand To Pay For It.
Laughing at the comicality of the request, and the thoroughly colonial
coolness of making it, William set off, and presently returned with
nearly half a sheep hanging over his shoulders, and a large joint in
one hand.
"Bless me, what luck!" exclaimed the delighted woman, and loud and
profuse were her thanks. She wanted to cook us a good dinner off the
meat gratis; but this we steadily refused and purchasing enough for the
present, we put our drays again into motion, and a little while after
kindled a fire, and were our own cooks as usual. That night we camped
beside the Deep Creek, about a mile from the "Deep Creek Inn." The
route we were now taking was different to the one we had travelled
going up - it was much more direct.
We remained all Sunday beside the creek, and the day passed quietly and
pleasantly.
On Monday the 25th we were again in motion. We passed the well known
inn of Tulip Wright's. How great a change those few weeks had made!
Winter had given place to summer, for Australia knows no spring. We
walked along the beautiful road to Flemington, gave a look at the
flagstaff and cemetery, turned into Great Bourke Street, halted at the
Post-office, found several letters, and finally stopped opposite the
"Duke of York Hotel," where we dined.
I shall leave myself most comfortably located here, whilst I devote a
chapter or two to other diggings.
Chapter XIII.
BALLARAT
Ballarat is situated about forty-five miles from Geelong, and
seventy-five nearly west of Melbourne. This was the first discovered
goldfield of any extent in Victoria, and was made known on the 8th of
September, 1851. The rush from Geelong was immense. Shops, stores,
trades, all and everything was deserted; and the press very truly
declared that "Geelong was mad - stark, staring gold-mad." During the
month of September five hundred and thirty-two licences were taken out;
in the month following the number increased to two thousand two hundred
and sixty one!
The usual road to Ballarat is by the Adelaide overland route on the
Gambier Road; but the most preferable is per Geelong. The former route
leads over the Keilor Plains, and through Bacchus Marsh, crossing the
Werribee River in two places. Mount Buninyong then appears in sight of
the well-pleased traveller, and Ballarat is soon reached.
The route VIA Geelong is much quicker, as part of the way is generally
performed by steam at the rate of one pound a-piece. Those who wish to
save their money go to Geelong by land. After leaving Flemington, and
passing the Benevolent Asylum, the Deep Creek is crossed by means of a
punt, and you then come to a dreary waste of land, called Iett's Flat.
Beyond is a steep rise and a barren plain, hardly fit to graze sheep
upon, and at about twenty miles from Melbourne you come to the first
halting house. Some narrow but rapid creeks must be got over, and for
seven miles further you wander along over a dreary sheep-run till
stopped by the Broken River, which derives its name partly from the
nature of its rocky bed, and partly from the native name which has a
similar sound
This creek is the most steep, rapid, and dangerous on the road, having
no bridge and no properly defined crossing-place or ford, except the
natural rocks about. The bottom is of red sand-stone and rocks of the
same description abut from the sides of the creek, and appear to abound
in the neighbourhood; and all along the plains here and there are
large fragments of sand and lime-stone rocks. Two hundred yards from
the creek is a neat inn after the English style, with a large
sitting-room, a tap, a bar, and a coffee-room. The bed-rooms are so
arranged as to separate nobs from snobs - an arrangement rather
inconsistent in a democratic colony. The inn also affords good stabling
and high charges. Up to this distance on our road there is a scarcity
of wood and springs of water.
We now pass two or three huts, and for twenty miles see nothing to
please the eye, for it is a dead, flat sheep-walk. About seven miles on
the Melbourne side of Geelong, the country assumes a more cheering
appearance - homesteads, gardens, and farms spring up - the roads improve,
and the timber is plentiful and large, consisting of shea-oaks, wattle,
stringy bark, and peppermints. Many of the houses are of a good
size, and chiefly built of stone, some are of wood, and very few of
brick.
Geelong, which is divided into north and south, is bounded by the
Barwin, a river navigable from the bay to the town, and might be
extended further; beautiful valleys well wooded lie beyond. Between the
two townships a park has been reserved, though not yet enclosed; the
timber in it, which is large - consisting principally of white gum and
stringy bark - is not allowed to be cut or injured. There are several
good inns, a court-house, police-station, and corporation offices.
There is also a neat church in the early pointed style, with a
parsonage and schools in the Elizabethan; all are of dark lime-stone,
having a very gloomy appearance, the stones being unworked, except near
the windows; the porches alone slightly ornamented. The road and
pavement are good in the chief streets; there is a large square with a
conduit, which is supplied by an engine from the Barwin. The shops are
large and well furnished, a great many houses are three stories high,
most are two, and very few one. The best part of town is about one
hundred feet above the river. A large timber bridge over the
Ballarat road was washed down last winter. The town is governed by a
mayor and corporation.
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