On The Night Of The 29th, For Our Own
Safety, I Could Allow Them No Water, For So Great Had Been The Drain That
Our Tanks Had But A Few Gallons Left.
The next was a day of
disappointments.
All day we followed the same two tracks, from rock-hole
to rock-hole - all were dry as the sandstone in which Nature had placed
them. We could see where the blacks had scraped out the sand at the
bottom - if THEY could not find water, what chance had we? But every step
took us closer - that is the great consolation in such cases. First, have
perfect faith that water will eventually be found, then each forward move
becomes easy, for you know that you are so much nearer relief. Every dry
hole gives a greater chance that the next will be full.
Near one hole we came on a ceremonial or dancing ground - that is, a
cleared space in the mulga scrub, circular in shape, with a cleanly swept
floor, trodden down by many feet. In the centre stood a sort of altar of
branches and twigs. It was evident that the blacks had danced round and
round this, though for what purpose I cannot say.
As the sun set our faith was rewarded; before us in an outcrop surrounded
by mulga lay two fine rock-holes with an ample supply. What a blessed
relief! In a few minutes the horses were gorged, and hard at work on the
rough grass near the holes. Hardy horses, indeed! Eight days from drink
to drink (not counting what we gave them), and hardly a scrap of feed.
We took a two days' rest for the sake of the grass, and varied our daily
fare of salt beef with small, tufted pigeons, which came in large numbers
to drink. We shot nearly one hundred of them, and ate boiled pigeon three
times a day with the voracity of black-fellows. Nor was Devil-devil
forgotten in the feast; he had become an expert rider, and had a far
better time than poor Val.
The curious fact of some rock-holes being full, whilst others a few miles
off are empty, again exemplifies the very local character of such rain as
visits these parts. The "Deep rock-holes," as we called them (in lat. 24
degrees 20 minutes, long. 127 degrees 20 minutes), are peculiar, for one
is perfectly cylindrical, two feet six inches in diameter going down
vertically to a depth of twenty feet; the other goes down straight for
six feet, and then shelves away under the rock to a depth of at least
twelve feet. It will be seen from our last few days' experience, and from
that of the few days soon to follow, that in this region rock-holes are
numerous. They are invariably situated on low surface outcrops of 'desert
sandstone, surrounded by mulga and grass; beyond that, sand. I take it
that they have been formed in the same way as the granite rock-holes in
the south of the Colony - that is, by decay; that the whole country has
been covered by a deposit of sand, borne by the winds, filling in former
valleys and hollows, leaving only occasional patches of rock still
visible. Their frequent occurrence would then be accounted for by the
fact that the deposit of sand is shallower here than elsewhere. That it
is so is pretty evident, for here the sand-ridges are much lower than
further North, and still further South they disappear. Low cliffs are
seen, and when the latitude of Forrest's route is reached, sandstone
hills are numerous and rock-holes abundant. In the course of ages perhaps
the sand will again be shifted until such reservoirs as the "Deep
rock-holes" are filled in and hidden, or partially covered and converted
by the natives into wells. Supposing a layer of sand to a depth of five
or six feet could be thrown over the valley in which the Deep rock-holes
are situated, the holes would at once be transformed into "Native Wells,"
the term "well" being a misnomer, and apt to suggest a copious supply to
any unacquainted with the interior. I suppose that to the uninitiated no
map is so misleading as that of West Australia, where lakes are salt-bogs
without surface water, springs seldom run, and native "wells" are merely
tiny holes in the rock, yielding from 0 to 200 gallons!
From our position at the rock-holes, by skirting, possibly without
sighting, the end of the Rawlinson Range and steering nearly due
South-West, we should hit off Woodhouse Lagoon of our upgoing journey.
For simplicity in steering I chose a due South-West course, which should
take us a few miles to the East of the lagoon, two hundred miles distant
in a bee-line. I was anxious to see what water it held, and check my work
by re-crossing our track of the previous year; and besides this, the
lagoon lay on our most direct course for the nearest settlements, still
450 miles away on the chart.
Whilst resting at the rock-holes I took the opportunity of giving Bluey a
lesson in manners, much to the entertainment of my companions.
Bluey was a brute of a camel, and used to give an immensity of trouble in
the mornings, galloping off at full speed when he should have quietly
waited to have his nose-line adjusted. Added to this, he would kick and
strike with his fore-legs, so much so that none of us cared about
catching him. One morning whilst Breaden was after the horses, I was
helping Warri collect the camels, and tried my hand with Bluey. At the
moment that I was putting the loop of his line on to the nose-peg, he
reared up and struck me on the chest, his hobble-chain adding power to
the blow, which sent me spinning on to my back.
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