A First Year In Canterbury Settlement By Samuel Butler


















































































































 - 

The world begins to feel very small when one finds one can get half
round it in three months; and - Page 17
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The World Begins To Feel Very Small When One Finds One Can Get Half Round It In Three Months; And One Mentally Determines To Visit All These Places Before Coming Back Again, Not To Mention A Good Many More.

I search my diary in vain to find some pretermitted adventure wherewith to give you a thrill, or, as good Mrs. B. calls it, "a feel"; but I can find none.

The mail is going; I will write again by the next.

CHAPTER III

Aspect of Port Lyttelton - Ascent of Hill behind it - View - Christ Church- -Yankeeisms - Return to Port Lyttelton and Ship - Phormium Tenax - Visit to a Farm - Moa Bones.

January 27, 1860. - Oh, the heat! the clear transparent atmosphere, and the dust! How shall I describe everything - the little townlet, for I cannot call it town, nestling beneath the bare hills that we had been looking at so longingly all the morning - the scattered wooden boxes of houses, with ragged roods of scrubby ground between them - the tussocks of brown grass - the huge wide-leafed flax, with its now seedy stem, sometimes 15 or 16 feet high, luxuriant and tropical-looking - the healthy clear-complexioned men, shaggy-bearded, rowdy-hatted, and independent, pictures of rude health and strength - the stores, supplying all heterogeneous commodities - the mountains, rising right behind the harbour to a height of over a thousand feet - the varied outline of the harbour now smooth and sleeping. Ah me! pleasant sight and fresh to sea-stricken eyes. The hot air, too, was very welcome after our long chill.

We dined at the table d'hote at the Mitre - so foreign and yet so English - the windows open to the ground, looking upon the lovely harbour. Hither come more of the shaggy clear-complexioned men with the rowdy hats; looked at them with awe and befitting respect. Much grieved to find beer sixpence a glass. This was indeed serious, and was one of the first intimations which we received that we were in a land where money flies like wild-fire.

After dinner I and another commenced the ascent of the hill between port and Christ Church. We had not gone far before we put our knapsacks on the back of the pack-horse that goes over the hill every day (poor pack- horse!). It is indeed an awful pull up that hill; yet we were so anxious to see what was on the other side of it that we scarcely noticed the fatigue: I thought it very beautiful. It is volcanic, brown, and dry; large intervals of crumbling soil, and then a stiff, wiry, uncompromising-looking tussock of the very hardest grass; then perhaps a flax bush, or, as we should have said, a flax plant; then more crumbly, brown, dry soil, mixed with fine but dried grass, and then more tussocks; volcanic rock everywhere cropping out, sometimes red and tolerably soft, sometimes black and abominably hard. There was a great deal, too, of a very uncomfortable prickly shrub, which they call Irishman, and which I do not like the look of at all.

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